Wine | Articles & Guides https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/tag/wine/ A Life in Balance Fri, 07 Jul 2023 07:44:27 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 Inside Château Léoube, the Bamfords’ Eco-Minded Winery in Provence https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/food-and-drink/inside-chateau-leoube/ Fri, 07 Jul 2023 07:44:27 +0000 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/?p=283868 Ellie Smith raises a glass of organic rosé at Château Léoube, where high society meets sustainability
Inside Château Léoube, the Bamfords’ Organic Winery in Provence
Since Carole Bamford launched Daylesford back in 2002, it has become a household name in the UK – synonymous with the Cotswolds and all things organic. Lesser ...

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Ellie Smith raises a glass of organic rosé at Château Léoube, where high society meets sustainability

Inside Château Léoube, the Bamfords’ Organic Winery in Provence

Since Carole Bamford launched Daylesford back in 2002, it has become a household name in the UK – synonymous with the Cotswolds and all things organic. Lesser known, though, is one of the Bamfords’ other ventures: a wine estate in Provence, which, over the past 25 years, has been quietly but surely flying the flag for eco-minded viticulture. 

Rose wine at Chateau Léoube

We’re talking about Château Léoube, a perfectly polished vineyard spread across four miles of coastline in the heart of Cap Bénat (the largest protected site in the Var), nestled within the sleepy town of Bormes-les-Mimosas. The Bamford family bought the estate back in 1997, enthralled by its seaside location, which not only looks beautiful, but also brings a unique quality to the winemaking. They set out to transform Léoube into an organic winery that showcased their holistic philosophy of nurturing the soil and working with the rhythms of the seasons. 

Grapes for winemaking at Chateau Leoube

Brought in to spearhead the process was Romain Ott, fourth generation winemaker of the esteemed Ott family, who, having grown up in the region, was already well acquainted with the land. After ten years of careful planting and planning, the first vintage was born in 2008. Nowadays, Léoube produces around 350,000 to 400,000 bottles of wine each year, with 80 percent of that being rosé, alongside white, red and sparkling. 

The land is protected, meaning it has reached capacity in terms of production – allowing the focus to be on quality rather than quantity. ‘The Léoube style is authentic fine wines that are balanced, delicate and elegant,’ describes Romain. A love for the natural world dictates everything at the estate. ‘We have three jobs: to look after the land, to nurture nature, and to look after its biodiversity,’ Jérôme Pernot, Léoube’s head of export, tells us. ‘As much as we can, everything we do is by hand, from the planting to the trimming.’ The soil is nourished using only natural composts and manures, with no herbicides or pesticides used, and during the winter months sheep graze the land, acting as a natural method of weed control. 

Café Léoube

Naturally, there’s a bit of Provençal glamour too – albeit in a relaxed way. Café Léoube is the estate’s chic beachside restaurant serving Mediterranean fare, made using ingredients from the on-site market garden.

And in 2021, James Middleton had his wedding at Château Léoube, attended by the then Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. But beneath the crisp glasses of rosé, pristine white linen and VIP guest list lies a clear, important message: that saving the earth starts from the ground up. As Romain puts it: ‘Viticulture at Léoube is and always has been a long-term vision, so sustainability is vital.’

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Best Pink Champagne and Sparkling Wine For Summer 2023 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/food-and-drink/best-pink-champagne/ Thu, 06 Jul 2023 08:50:31 +0000 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/?p=227769 Leisurely lunches by the seafront. Balmy date nights. Celebratory garden parties. Rosé champagne is the perfect tipple for summer celebrations, but which bottle is best for you? Here we bring you the C&TH pick of the best pink champagne and sparkling wine, plus some tips on what to pair it ...

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Leisurely lunches by the seafront. Balmy date nights. Celebratory garden parties. Rosé champagne is the perfect tipple for summer celebrations, but which bottle is best for you? Here we bring you the C&TH pick of the best pink champagne and sparkling wine, plus some tips on what to pair it with.

What does Pink Champagne Pair Well With?

There’s no denying rosé champagne is an aesthetically pleasing option, but it’s also great for food pairing. Lighter varieties go well with seafood, while robust rosé champagnes can stand up to strong meats like spiced lamb or ’nduja. Rosé champagne is also often paired with desserts, particularly fruity puddings and dishes with a touch of acidity. You can find more on this here.

Best Pink Champagne and Sparkling Wine For 2023

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Hambledon Première Cuvée Rosé

Hambledon Première Cuvée Rosé, £75, hambledonvineyard.co.uk

Hambledon’s first Première Cuvée Rosé is a blend based on the 2016 harvest, with a delicate strawberry pink colour and a multi-layered palette with notes of summer raspberry fruit and blackberry.

Lanson Rosé Fruit Market Champagne

Lanson Rosé Fruit Market Champagne, £59.50, thechampagnecompany.com

A classic, fresh champagne, Lanson Rosé Fruit Market has a pure colour with pink salmon hues, with aromas of roses and fruit alongside more discreet notes of red fruit.

Veuve Clicquot Rosé

Veuve Clicquot Rosé, £56, clos19.com

Madame Clicquot created the House’s first blended rosé champagne by adding red wine to white champagne in 1818. In the centuries since, it has been perfected to what it is today: a full-bodied, fruity variety with flavours of strawberries and cherries.

Ruinart 'Second Skin' Brut Rosé Champagne

Ruinart ‘Second Skin’ Brut Rosé Champagne, £69.99, majestic.co.uk

Founded all the way back in 1729, Ruinart was the very first champagne house, meaning it has centuries worth of winemaking experience. Its Brut Rosé Champagne is a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with flavours of guava, pomegranate and berries. The ‘Second Skin’ bottle, meanwhile, offers an eco-friendly alternative to a gift box.

Moët & Chandon Rosé Imperial

Moët & Chandon Rosé Imperial, £51.50, clos19.com

For a classic pink fizz, Moët’s Rosé Imperial is always a winner: a fruity, dry wine with notes of raspberry, wild strawberry and cherry, well-suited to leisurely summer afternoons.

Bollinger Rosé Champagne

Bollinger Rosé Champagne, £56.99, majestic.co.uk

Created in 2008, Bollinger Rosé is a pink twist on the House’s classic powerful style. Made from Pinot Noir with a dash of each of Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier, it has flavours of summer berry fruits with a soft texture – a perfect choice when paired with seafood or fruit-based desserts.

Charles Heidsieck Rose Reserve Champagne

Charles Heidsieck Rose Reserve Champagne, £60.50, thechampagnecompany.com

The vivacious bubbles of Charles Heidsieck’s rosé are the result of an ageing period of over 48 months, with a deep, powerful palate evoking tastes of strawberry, raspberry and blackberry.

Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2012

Perrier-Jouët Belle Epoque Rosé 2013, £253, thewhiskyexchange.com

This 2010 vintage from Perrier-Jouët has a unique, delicate flavour featuring spring flower aromas and zesty, citrus elements. A blend of 90 per cent Chardonnay and 10 per cent Pinot Noir grapes, it pairs well with white fish, mild cheeses and citrus desserts.

Taittinger Brut Prestige Rose Champagne Gift Box

Taittinger Brut Prestige Rose Champagne Gift Box, £39, thechampagnecompany.com

Taittinger’s pink champagne gets its vibrant hue from the addition of 15 per cent still red wine from the vineyards of Ambonnay and Bouzy. It’s a full-bodied, velvety wine with flavours of fresh fruit, ideal to pair with fish, seafood or summer fruits.

Dom Perignon Rose Vintage Champagne

Dom Perignon Rose Vintage Champagne, £299, ocado.com

You can’t go wrong with Dom Perignon. At £299, this vintage rose is a pricier option – but it’s perfect for special occasions, with tropical hints of guava blended with zesty notes and toasted spices.

Louis Roederer Rosé Brut Champagne

Louis Roederer Rosé Brut Champagne (Vintage), £68.99, vivino.com

Louis Roederer is best known for its iconic Cristal, but its rosé variety is equally delicious. It’s a fresh and fruity wine, with strawberry and blueberry flavours underpinned by more concentrated citrus notes.

Champagne Billecart-Salmon, Rosé, Brut

Champagne Billecart-Salmon, Rosé, Brut, £68.95, harveynichols.com

Billecart-Salmon’s rosé champagne is renowned for its quality, with the secrets of its production close-guarded among the family, handed down across seven generations. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir vinified as red wine, it has a pale yet radiant pink colour with a fresh finish and hints of raspberry.

Main image: Getty Images

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The French Renaissance: Best French White Wines https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/food-and-drink/the-french-renaissance-best-french-white-wines/ Wed, 05 Jul 2023 09:25:55 +0000 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/?p=243258 France doesn’t have the best reputation for consistency and value when it comes to wine, but it’s come a long way in recent years. Well, actually, our wine stores and supermarkets have come a long way in making it much easier for us to spot the good’uns. A walk up ...

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France doesn’t have the best reputation for consistency and value when it comes to wine, but it’s come a long way in recent years. Well, actually, our wine stores and supermarkets have come a long way in making it much easier for us to spot the good’uns. A walk up the aisles now gives us plenty of variety, much more consistency and some great value. But does France give us anything that we can’t buy from every other great wine producing country?

The short answer is, yes it does. As with their food produce (take Brie de Meaux for example), they protect their wine styles fiercely, ensuring their wines speak of their area of origin. ‘Gut de terroir’ they call it: the taste of the grape in that particular soil in that particular area.

Given, then, that the French work so hard to protect their wine styles and our UK wine buyers have made it increasingly ‘safe’ for us to buy them, it seems that there’s never been a better time to head for the shops.

Here below are some of France’s great white wine styles with a fabulous example of each to try.

Best French White Wines

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Sauvignon de Touraine

Sauvignon de Touraine

Often priced below £10, and delivering all the freshness and zestiness that a good Marlborough Sauvignon does but with an extra hint of herbaceousness, making it both interesting and delicious.

Sainsbury’s Touraine Sauvignon Blanc, Taste the Difference, £10, sainsburys.co.uk

Chablis Louis Moreau

Chablis

Every wine country in the world wants to make one of these… but they can’t. The result of Chardonnay, grown on fossil rich Kimmeridgian clay soils in the cool climate of northern burgundy, these wines are dry with plenty of green apple fruit and incredibly classy. The only Chardonnay I know of that Sauvignon Blanc lovers will enjoy too.

Chablis Louis Moreau, £14.99, waitrose.com

Saint Véran 'Haute Cuvée' 2020, Rijckaert F. Rouve

Saint Veran

One of France’s most consistently delicious expressions of Chardonnay. Here, in southern Burgundy, the warm sun heats up the clay rich vineyards to produce wonderful creamy, citrus like wines.

Saint Véran ‘Haute Cuvée’ 2020, Rijckaert F. Rouve, £18.99, majestic.co.uk

Sancerre, Domaine Naudet

Sancerre

This is the most famous appellation of the Loire Valley where Sauvignon expresses itself with crisp, gooseberry-like fruit and freshly cut grass. The perfect wine with seafood.

Sancerre, Domaine Naudet, £19.99, waitrose.com

Bernard Fouquet Cuvée de Silex Vouvray

Vouvray

Vouvray has to be made using Chenin Blanc and here in the Loire it can conjure up a whole orchard of fruit in the glass. Look for Vouvray Sec if you want a dry wine and strap yourself in for a wonderful taste sensation.

Bernard Fouquet Cuvée de Silex Vouvray, £9.59, waitrose.com

Tesco Finest Sauternes

Sauternes

This is the most famous sweet wine in the world. Sauternes sits to the south of Bordeaux where they allow the Semillon and Muscadelle grapes to ‘dry rot’ in September. This concentrates the sugar and makes for an intensely sweet dessert wine that’s a match made in heaven with Tarte Tatin.

Tesco Finest Sauternes, £13, tesco.com

Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine ‘Sur Lie’, Domaine de la Tourmaline

Muscadet de Sevre et Maine ‘sur Lie’

Famed for producing 1980’s battery acid, Muscadet is now a delicious Sauvignon look-a-like with energy, freshness and plenty of ripe fruit.

Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine ‘Sur Lie’, Domaine de la Tourmaline, £7.99, majestic.co.uk

Condrieu 'La Butte d'Or', Alain Jaume

Condrieu

The most well known appellation of the Northern Rhone and unquestionably the greatest expression of Viognier… in the world. This is the benchmark. It’s expensive but if you want to experience the ripest peach getting hitched to the raciest apricot then try this wine below.

Condrieu ‘La Butte d’Or’, Alain Jaume, £34.99, majestic.co.uk

Tom Gilbey has over 30 years of experience in the wine trade. In 2020 he founded his eponymous wine company, which curates wine-focused events in venues across London, plus sells wine online. Find out more at tomgilbey.com

Main image: Getty Images

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Is This The Ultimate Wine Lover’s Trip? https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/food-and-drink/osiris-wine-trip/ Wed, 21 Jun 2023 12:53:01 +0000 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/?p=280779 Whether you’re in Bordeaux or Chile, wine regions all over the globe are jam-packed with opportunities for tastings and tours. But this new experience from the Osiris Club takes things to new heights, offering a behind-the-scenes look at one of the world’s most famous wine regions: Napa Valley.
Is This the ...

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Whether you’re in Bordeaux or Chile, wine regions all over the globe are jam-packed with opportunities for tastings and tours. But this new experience from the Osiris Club takes things to new heights, offering a behind-the-scenes look at one of the world’s most famous wine regions: Napa Valley.

Is This the Ultimate Wine Lover’s Trip?

First up, here’s a bit of background. Osiris is a new private members’ club which allows you to make wine to your own precise specification. Dreamed up by Californian winemaker Paul McSharry, the club partners with wineries all over the world to help its members create their own wines, guided by winemakers.

But that’s not all: membership also includes access to a calendar of exclusive wine-focused events and trips – the first of which is set to take place this August. 

Book Here

San Filippo barrel room

The experience aims to act as a taster for potential members, offering an introduction to the perks and benefits of being part of the Osiris Club. Lucky guests will embark on a four-night journey to Napa Valley, exploring some of the region’s most iconic vineyards and dining at the finest restaurants

The charming town of St Helena will serve as the base for the trip, and guests will stay at the five-star Auberge du Soleil hotel.

During the getaway, you’ll visit places like AXR Winery where you’ll take part in a private blending session and sample their wines alongside famed winemaker and owner Jean Hoefliger. Another day will involve a trip to the home of Russell and Heidi Bevan, owners of Adversity Cellars and Bevan Cellars, where you’ll be treated to a private tasting and lunch.

Dom Maldant Pauvelot

Food will also be fundamental to the trip. The itinerary includes meals at prestigious eateries like The Charter Oak, spearheaded by acclaimed chef Christopher Kostow, and PRESS Restaurant, a bucolic haven which boasts the largest collection of Napa wines in the world. And don’t worry: alongside all this stellar food and drink, you’ll have plenty of free time to explore the beautiful region (it’s a holiday after all). What more could you want?

Interested? Find out more by emailing the team on info@osirisclub.com or visiting osirisclub.com

Book Here

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Chateau Figeac, The New Star Of Saint Émilion – Review https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/culture/chateau-figeac-the-new-star-of-saint-emilion-review/ Thu, 15 Jun 2023 16:31:59 +0000 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/?p=281306 Richard Hopton heads to Chateau Figeac, a glorious estate with a brand new winery.
Chateau Figeac, The New Star Of Saint Émilion – Review
Image credit: Alain Benoit
Chateau Figeac, one of Saint Émilion‘s most celebrated estates, boasts a long history. The name traces its origins to the 2nd century AD when a ...

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Richard Hopton heads to Chateau Figeac, a glorious estate with a brand new winery.

Chateau Figeac, The New Star Of Saint Émilion – Review

Vineyard at Chateau Figeac.

Image credit: Alain Benoit

Chateau Figeac, one of Saint Émilion‘s most celebrated estates, boasts a long history. The name traces its origins to the 2nd century AD when a Gallo-Roman villa stood on the site but vines have been grown here since at least the sixteenth century. The elegant chateau which stands at the centre of the estate dates from the last years of the 18th century. The Manoncourt family, owners of the estate since 1892, has constantly improved the quality of the wine through minute but unwavering attention to detail. Despite this long and distinguished past, the last two years nonetheless represent a significant moment in Figeac’s history.

In September 2022, Figeac was promoted to join the highest rank of Saint Émilion’s classification of wines, Grand Cru Classé ‘A’, thereby joining the grand dukes of the appellation, Chateaux Angelus, Ausone, Cheval Blanc, and Pavie. This promotion was recognition of the exceptional character, quality and consistency of Figeac’s wines over many vintages.

The 2021 vintage was notable as the first to be produced in the magnificent new winery. The 5000-metres-squared building combines the latest technology with a felicitous design which minimises the visual impact of the structure in the landscape by sinking it into the ground. This allows the 18th century chateau to retain its time-honoured dominance over its surroundings. 

The incorporation of many elements of the old building in the new – for example, the former Renaissance cellar was dismantled and the stones reused – is an aesthetic triumph which reflects the Manoncourt family’s determination to minimise the impact of human activity on the environment. Figeac comprises a single block of 54 hectares – a large estate by the standards of Saint Émilion – of which 41 hectares are planted with vines. Much of the rest of the land is the estate’s ‘green spine’ – a registered wildlife reserve – consisting of woods, meadows, an orchard, a vegetable garden, parkland, and a lake which between them provide habitats for a wide range of flora and fauna. There are also 3 kilometres of hedges on the estate. Such biodiversity is unique among wine estates in Saint Émilion and exerts a vital influence on the character of Figeac’s wines.  

Winery at Chateau Figeac.

Image credit: Raphael Zimmermann Oryx

The design of the new winery is both beautiful and functional but was determined from the outset by the technical requirements of modern winemaking. Eight French oak vats and 40 blunt-nosed conical stainless steel vats allow the variety and subtlety of Figeac’s terroir to be more accurately reflected in the wines. Formerly, there were perhaps 25 samples of wine from the three grape varieties used in the blending process; now there are typically 45. 

The new building includes two tasting rooms with fine views over the vineyards and into the winery, two subterranean barrel rooms, and a cellar for storing the family’s collection of historic Figeac vintages which date back to the late 19th century. The west wing of the chateau itself has been remodelled to form a large entertaining space consisting of a music room and a drawing room. The new winery is designed to be as energy efficient as possible and to provide an agreeable working environment for Figeac’s staff. For example, the subterranean barrel rooms are lit by natural light: ‘The human aspect of sustainability should not be forgotten,’ says Blandine de Brier Manoncourt. 

Ultimately, Figeac’s reputation will stand or fall on its wines and they are fabulous. The estate has been blessed with an unusual geology: three gravel hills set upon different types of subsoil overlaying blue clay. The Figeac vineyards have four identifiable microclimates as well as reaping the ecological benefits of the estate’s ‘green spine’. ‘Our purpose,’ says Mme. de Manoncourt, ‘is to serve the terroir and the wine.’ 

Figeac’s wine is a blend of cabernet sauvignon –a grape not usually found in Saint Émilion – cabernet franc and merlot. As the wines age, they grow in complexity and reveal different aspects of themselves, developing different characters – in some cases markedly so – which reflect the unique conditions of each vintage. 

Château Hôtel Grand Barrail at dusk.

Hotel Grand Barrail

During my visit I stayed at Hotel Grand Barrail, just across the road from Chateau Figeac. It is a glorious early twentieth-century pastiche in honey-coloured stone of a sixteenth-century chateau.  The hotel sits on the edge of the vineyards of the neighbouring Chateau La Marzelle, another Saint Émilion Grand Cru Classé estate. Grand Barrail has been a hotel since 1993 but has now been extensively and luxuriously refurbished. Nine of the 46 rooms are in the original chateau, the remainder being located in various annexes in the grounds. There is also a spa and wellness centre.

The hotel’s peaceful grounds include a small lake, home to a pair of swans. The garden front is planted with a quartered wild flower meadow, bordered by roses and trimmed evergreen bushes. It is a haven of tranquility, a stolen moment of douceur de vivre, away from the hectic world beyond.  

To find out more about Chateau de Figeac, visit chateau-figeac.com. To find our more about Hotel Grand Barrail, visit grand-barrail.com.

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English Wine Week: Abbie Moulton on the British Wine Renaissance https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/food-and-drink/the-new-face-of-british-wine/ Wed, 14 Jun 2023 09:00:09 +0000 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/?p=263075 Historically, British wine hasn’t had the best reputation. For many years, the term has been used within the wine industry to refer to a low-quality, fortified drink made from imported grape concentrate. But over the past couple of decades, things have changed dramatically. The quality of British wine has seen ...

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Historically, British wine hasn’t had the best reputation. For many years, the term has been used within the wine industry to refer to a low-quality, fortified drink made from imported grape concentrate. But over the past couple of decades, things have changed dramatically. The quality of British wine has seen huge improvements – helped, in part, by rising temperatures, but also as a result of increased knowledge and experimentation. English sparkling wine has been in the spotlight for some years now, spearheaded by the big dogs like Nyetimber and Gusbourne, but still wines are quietly undergoing something of a revolution too, with an ever-growing collection of pioneering makers helping put British wine on the map.

In her book New British Wine, drinks writer Abbie Moulton explores the stories of these makers. Created alongside photographer Maria Bell, the book takes us on a tour of Britain’s fast-growing wine scene – from a biodynamic vineyard in Wales to a walled garden in Hampshire; an estate in south London to a Michelin-starred restaurant in Somerset. Here, she talks to C&TH about what she discovered.

The New Face of British Wine: Q&A with Abbie Moulton

Can you give us a summary of what readers can expect from the book?

I guess people might be familiar with English wine by now, and they might be familiar with English sparkling wine. What I really wanted to do with the book was to go beneath that and behind that, and to bring forward the stories of the mavericks and makers that are bubbling up from behind that more mainstream scene. What people can expect is a real snapshot of what’s happening in the UK at the moment and what we’re going to see over the next decade or so, along with lots of personal stories and insider information.

What topline changes have we seen in British wine in the past few years?

While it might look and seem like wines from the UK have suddenly exploded, they have actually been around since the ’60s. In the ’70s, we had quite challenging wines, they were quite acidic, but they were definitely the beginnings – we can trace amazing things that are happening now back to things that started then. Then we joined the dots around the ’80s and ’90s and discovered that we could make cracking quality sparkling wines to rival champagne. There’s a similar climate, we can grow the same grapes, if you apply those same methods we can actually beat champagne at their own game. That’s what we’ve been doing since Nyetimber won best sparkling in the world in 1998. 

Those makers put us on the world stage and we’ll always respect them, but now we’re dawning a new era: makers who are keen to do things in their own way, break out of the recipe of other regions and experiment. I often think in the UK we’re kind of known for being eccentric – you can see it in our art, you can see it in our literature, and I think you can definitely see it with our winemaking, we’re not afraid to really go for it. You can get anything from quite classic, fantastic, aged red pinot noirs that won’t scare away people who have never tried English wine before, but you can also find absolutely bonkers creations like carbonic maceration wines made from Wales.

Tillingham, vineyard

Tillingham

Who was the most interesting person you met while researching the book?

Down on the south coast, there’s Charlie Herring. The winemaker’s name is Tim Phillips and it is a tiny one acre walled garden where Charlie is growing grapes that aren’t really known in the UK, like Riesling. He’s extremely connected to the land and the cosmos in a very holistic way – going to see him was inspiring. His wine output is absolutely tiny, so it will be quite a difficult one for people to get their hands on, which just makes it all the more special. But he really blew my mind in the way he’s making and growing and thinking about the future and thinking about the land.

Somebody a bit more accessible would be Oxney Organic, almost on the complete opposite end to Tim Philipps. Kristin (the owner) bought acres of land in Sussex and is now making the classic style of English sparkling, but she’s doing it organically – which is what people like to say we cannot do to scale in this country, and she’s proving that you absolutely can. Her wines are sold in Waitrose. I just think she’s doing a really good job showing that winemakers can make money, and they can make volume, and they can do it organically. 

What about the London winemakers?

There’s Blackbook Winery in Battersea, London Cru over in west London, and Renegade – all three are completely different. Blackbook Winery is making the most classic style, it makes fantastic red wine as well as sparkling and white. That’s my choice for dinner party wine, if I know I have to impress people. Sergio (Verrillo) was a sommelier at Gordon Ramsay restaurants, and his palette is so refined, so he absolutely knows quality, but in his own words he’s making wine on a grungy estate in south London.

How have attitudes towards British wine changed in recent years?

I guess we can talk about two separate things. One is the term and the actual words British wine, and the other one is the liquid. Before publishing this book, the term British wine, if it was known by anybody, was known by people in the wine trade, and it was known as this not particularly high quality liquid that we used to make in the UK. It wasn’t able to be given a geographical designation like champagne, it wasn’t called English wine, it had to be called British wine. Because of that, we’ve all shied away from using the term British wine, and so you see it in tastings and supermarkets: they come up with these titles like ‘wines of the UK’. And I thought: we can’t keep calling it this, it’s about time we moved away. So the term British wine is controversial at the moment, and we’re just starting to think: it’s about time we owned it. So if we’re talking specifically about the term, I think people would hear the term British wine and sort of balk at it – but hopefully that’s changing.

If we’re talking about the reputation of the liquid, people are still quite surprised that we’re making wine from this country, and when they taste it, they’re always very pleasantly surprised. Perhaps one of the slight barriers is the price: people expect to be able to get an English wine at the same sort of price as, for instance, a mass produced Chilean wine, and of course we can’t. We’re a marginal climate, we’re a baby industry, we haven’t got factories – what we’re actually working with is farmers on a smaller scale. It’s better to think of English and Welsh or British wine as we think of local produce – it’s almost like your Natoora vegetables, or going to the deli and buying kale from the farmer who made it with his hands. The pricing one day will follow, but I think it’s key for people to think of it as a farmer grown, human made product. 

A British vineyard

How is sustainability driving changes in the world of British wine?

I myself as a writer am very into farming and sustainability, but without me asking any of the makers these questions – because I didn’t want to make a book that came across as preachy – every single maker spoke to me about it. We do have to acknowledge that the improvements in British wine are partly down to climate change. Not solely – it’s also down to the fact that our knowledge is increasing and our experience is increasing, but we have to acknowledge that it’s down to climate change that we’re able to make this volume and this quality. People are really keen to be respectful of that. Makers know they have to protect the planet, they’re all very keen to do what they can.

That’s one of the things we’re seeing in this new era that we’re moving into. Lots of makers are looking at grape varieties that would have been quite un-trendy a decade ago – hybrid grape varieties that have been bred to succeed in cooler climates, that a decade ago winemakers didn’t want to know about. And now, because they require less labour and less resource and definitely fewer chemicals, if not zero chemicals, they are actually being embraced. We’re seeing lots of things like new grape varieties, new farming methods, people who will happily forgo the volume of grapes that they can make in exchange for being able to grow them without chemicals. And across the board in food and in other drinks, we’re happier to accept slightly different flavour profiles now. A decade ago we wanted everything to be really clean and crisp and in line with expectations, whereas now we’re quite happy to taste something and accept that it might have developed its own style because it’s been made without chemicals and without technological intervention.

Bottles of wine on a table

What are some good shops you can recommend for British wine?

Uncharted Wines, and The English Vine.

What about bars?

Isca Wines, just outside of Manchester – Caroline is French Canadian and she has just really embraced our makers, she’s always got a good selection. And in London, one of my favourite places to drink English wine is Berners Tavern: it’s huge and feels quite fancy, but you can sort of fall in there in casual clothing. They have a champagne trolley which has English sparkling wine in there, and it’s just a really fun thing to do, to go to this beautiful venue and hail the champagne trolley and have a few glasses of English bubbles.

Then there’s Tillingham, it’s incredibly well known but for good reason – it’s beautiful. Their accommodation is often booked up but you can still pop in for pizza from the outside pizza oven and some glasses of English wine.

Finally, any myths about wine you can dispel for us?

There are so many myths! This debate has raged on for years about whether organic or low intervention wine gives you less of a hangover. A lot of people say no and that science doesn’t say anything about that. But anecdotally I can tell you that, from 15 years of tasting and drinking professionally, I definitely notice that if I’m drinking organic or low intervention wine the feeling the next day is so much lighter.

And one thing I’m always keen for people to embrace is that wine isn’t something to be afraid of: it’s just boozy grape juice. People get so hung up on not knowing the tasting terms: taste what you want, if you like it say it, if you don’t like it don’t be afraid to say that, drink it from a tumbler if you don’t have wine glasses. Just enjoy it!

Making wine

Renegade Urban Winery

Abbie’s Top British Wine Picks

Sparkling: Oxney Organic Estate NV, Sussex

A classic-style sparkling made with the well-known champagne blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier grapes, with the very English addition of Seyval Blanc. Beautiful, crisp and bright, and full of English orchard flavours like apple and pear. I’ll be toasting the arrival of spring with this one.

White: Davenport Horsmonden dry white 2020, Sussex

This still white from the influential organic pioneer Will Davenport has something of a cult reputation, and has been produced every year since 1993. A blend of Ortega, Bacchus, Faber, Huxelrebe and Siegrrebe – some of those grapes that were once eschewed in the UK and are now becoming more respected for their ability to thrive without the need for chemicals. Vibrant lime zest, apple blossom and ripe peach.   

Rose: Camel Valley rose, Cornwall

Pinot Noir grapes grown on a family-run vineyard in Cornwall give this rosé lashings of strawberry and raspberry notes. 

Red: Blackbook Winery ‘Night Jar’ Pinot Noir, Battersea

Sommelier-turned-winemaker Sergio coaxes extraordinary wines from grapes grown in Essex and Oxfordshire, and raised under the arches of a railway in Battersea. His Pinot Noirs are my go-to dinner party wines when I want to impress guests with quality and a good story.

New British Wine book cover

New British Wine (Hoxton Mini Press) is out now. £35, hoxtonminipress.com

Photography by Maria Bell

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The Best French Rosés To Enjoy This Season https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/food-and-drink/best-french-rose-wines/ Tue, 13 Jun 2023 10:55:13 +0000 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/?p=153820 As soon as the sun comes out, rosé season is upon us. Before you head for the nearest rooftop bar (or make haste to the South of France), check out our edit of the best French rosé wines on the market right now. Want a long read while you sip? Sarah ...

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As soon as the sun comes out, rosé season is upon us. Before you head for the nearest rooftop bar (or make haste to the South of France), check out our edit of the best French rosé wines on the market right now. Want a long read while you sip? Sarah Hyde takes us on a virtual tour of the South of France – through the power of rosé.

French Rosé: What To Enjoy This Season

If you close your eyes and dream a little – while sipping a chilled glass of rosé wine – you may momentarily be transported to your favourite spot on the glittering Côte d’Azur.

Rosé is fast becoming the nation’s favourite summer drink. At one of our favourite supermarkets, sales are 56 per cent up on last year – and Charles Lea of wine merchants Lea & Sandeman wistfully announced: ‘we have asked for more but there isn’t any’.

The figures come as no surprise to rosé expert Elizabeth Gabay, author of Rosé: The Pink Wine Revolution. Gabay has been following this change in the wine market for some time, predicting continued exponential growth – with niche prestige rosés leading the way. As the big names battle it out on the supermarket shelves, this selection of wines from the South of France will take you from the gorgeous island of Porquerolles to the Bandol region of Provence, before moving into the mountains of Miravel and into the sublime shadow of Mont St Victoire, which so captivated the painter Paul Cézanne.

Vue sur la Cadière

Cotes de Provence Rosé Domaine de L’Ile comes from the isle of Porquerolles. As the entire island is a national park, this wine is bursting with fresh air and bright flashes of midday sunshine, with a hint of the minerality that makes up this forested land. These wines are organic, clear, crisp and low in sugar; the fruit is collected at just the right moment to ensure it doesn’t become too sweet on the vine. Production here is relatively small, with only 20 hectares under production for rosé and just four for their remarkable white wine, made from 100 per cent Rolle grape variety. It’s delightful to imagine the bottles leaving by small boat for the port of Hyères on the mainland. The estate has recently changed hands, joining a small group of vineyards owned by the Fashion house Chanel. This year’s vintage was produced during this transition of ownership – under the watchful eye of Nicolas Audebert – and gives a tantalising clue to the direction in which this wine is going: 2020 should be exciting.

Moving inland into the Bandol wine region, the received rosé wine wisdom (which is fast changing), is that this is home to the finest grapes. The region has its own appellation, and grapes grown here in the flat lands behind Hyères are famous for the minerality of the terroire with its limestone. The warm coastal climate is perfect for the late ripening Mourvèdre grape, which is vital to the structure that distinguishes the Bandol rosé from other Cotes du Provence. Tempier Rosé is very highly considered and is perhaps the most formal wine in this group. Delicious, structured and quite strong for such young wine, it can be seen as a point of reference for what a good Bandol rosé should taste like.

South of France

As this area is also the summer playground of the rich and famous, one of its joys is running alongside the glamourous. As they relax at Chateau Miraval – the summer home of Brad Pitt – a delicious Cotes de Provence is produced on a large scale under the auspices of the internationally recognised French winemakers, the Perrin family. One of the big producers taking Cotes de Provence to a global market, Miraval has become a standard bearer for rosé. With 600 hectares of organic wine under production, they are currently working hard on a pink champagne and, intriguingly, a mysterious art project.

Finally, the path less well-travelled takes us to Château Gassier, under the shadow of the Sainte-Victoires mountain, to taste Le Pas du Moine. The organic grapes are gathered by night to ensure that things stay cool during the fermentation process. The low temperatures and perhaps the mysterious spirit of the night, produces a beautiful pale pink wine with a touch of vin gris. It has echoes of lychees and exotic fruit, and is absolutely delicious paired with seafood.

Best French Rosé 2023

Photo 1 of
Whispering Angel Rosé 2022, Château d'Esclans

Whispering Angel Rosé 2022, Château d’Esclans, currently £17.95, finewinedirect.co.uk

Mirabeau Pure Rosé Provence

Mirabeau Pure Rosé Provence, £15.99, waitrose.com

Rosé 2016

Domaine Tempier, Bandol Rose 2019, £42, thegoodwineshop.co.uk

Côtes de Provence Rosé

Côtes de Provence Rosé, £19.99, vivino.com

Château Gassier Esprit De Gassier Côtes De Provence Rosé 2020

Château Gassier Esprit De Gassier Côtes De Provence Rosé 2020, £17.80, vinvm.co.uk

Mirval Rose

Miraval Provence Rose Wine, £19, tesco.com

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English Wine Week 2023: English Vineyards To Visit Now https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/travel/english-vineyards-to-visit-now/ Wed, 07 Jun 2023 15:10:41 +0000 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/?p=248233 Cindy-Marie Harvey, owner of wine tour company, Love Wine Food Ltd, shares some of the most idyllic English vineyards to visit during English Wine Week and beyond.
English Vineyards To Visit Now
A glass of chilled fizz in hand as you relax on a terrace enjoying the view across rolling hills lined ...

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Cindy-Marie Harvey, owner of wine tour company, Love Wine Food Ltd, shares some of the most idyllic English vineyards to visit during English Wine Week and beyond.

English Vineyards To Visit Now

A glass of chilled fizz in hand as you relax on a terrace enjoying the view across rolling hills lined with perfectly manicured vineyards, glistening in the sunshine. Dazzling white chalk soils that urge you to reach for your sunshades, before a gastronomic lunch at an estate. Images that have seduced many a wine lover to visit the classic vineyards from Champagne to Burgundy, Franciacorta to the Dolomites.

But instead, closer to home, welcome to the exciting world of English wine. Cindy-Marie Harvey, owner of wine tour company, Love Wine Food Ltd, explores this in her new book, Watercress, Willow and Wine. It’s full of suggestions of English wine estates to visit alongside irresistible recipes matched with wines from award-winning sparklings to seductive Pinot Noirs. She also discovers delicious English charcuterie and cheese pairings throughout. Here are just a few of her English vineyard recommendations.

Furleigh estate harvest buesnel

Furleigh Estate

Sandridge Barton

Located in the beautiful Dart Valley in Devon, the estate is home to Sharpham wines. With a limestone ridge vineyard that echoes the Côte d’Or in Burgundy, among its range is a delightful Pinot Noir as well as Pinot Gris and Madeleine Angevin. The estate also makes wonderful cheeses including its Triple Cream Elmhirst from Jersey Cows milk, perfect for a picnic by the river with a glass of their Estate White Selection. Do visit the Winery Restaurant, Circa, in the converted dairy barn for dishes such as Smoked Haddock Chowder with Quails Eggs or Beef Carpaccio with Sloe Berries. sandridgebarton.com

Coates & Seely

This vineyard produces glorious food friendly sparkling wines in Hampshire. It’s situated not far from Winchester, the ancient capital of England, and surrounded by crystal clear chalk streams. Virginia Coates welcomes visitors to taste its perfectly balanced sparkling wines with a dazzling array of her canapés featuring local produce, such as the locally made Tunworth Cheese, described by Raymond Blanc as ‘the best camembert in the world’. Look out for its classic restored vintage coach, Albion. coatesandseely.com

Nutbourne Vineyards

Nutbourne Vineyards

Nutbourne Vineyards

This one is tucked away down a leafy country lane in West Sussex. Owned by Chef Peter Gladwin and his wife, artist Bridget Gladwin, the family run estate is the perfect place to relax on a sunny English afternoon. It’s fascinating to learn about the different styles of vine growing and the eight grape varieties they have planted. Nutbourne’s white Sussex Reserve captures the essence of the countryside with notes of elderflower. Enjoy a picnic of locally made trout paté & flavourful Nutbourne tomatoes overlooking the vines. nutbournevineyards.com

High Clandon

Although owned and worked by a charming South African couple, Bruce and Sybilla Tindale, this boutique estate could not be more quintessentially English. In a designated area of outstanding natural beauty in the Surrey Hills, the vineyard is flanked by a truffle wood and wild flower meadow. A welcoming cellar door tasting barn offers visitors the chance to taste their sparkling cuvées, the perfect match for Sibylla’s irresistible Gougères, stuffed with truffle cream. Look out for their art in the Vines event, where sculptures & artwork are dotted across the estate, with its spectacular views across to the London skyline. highclandon.co.uk

Camel Valley glasses of wine

Camel Valley

Henners Vineyard

On the edge of the Pevensey Levels Nature Reserve in East Sussex is Henners Vineyard, just four miles from the coast. With the South Downs way running close to its property, Henners is an ideal place to visit after a morning’s walk for a reviving glass of wine. Planted with the traditional trilogy of Champenoise varieties of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Meunier, it produces not only vibrant sparkling wines but also still wines including the Native Grace Chardonnay featured in the book. Look out for foodie events at the estate, and do try the vineyard’s estate Gin, distilled from its own wines, in copper pot stills, which creates a cloudy style in the glass thanks to the natural oils in the botanicals. hennersvineyard.co.uk

Gusbourne

Gusbourne is situated near Appledore in Kent, although the company also owns vineyards near the Goodwood estate in Sussex. Winemaker Charlie Holland creates stunning English sparkling wines, with a wonderful purity of fruit in the glass, such as the amazing Blanc de Noirs, but Cindy-Marie chose their wonderful still Pinot Noir as the featured wine in her book. A glorious expression of this ethereal variety, bursting with red fruits, as well as notes of black cherries and warming spice, it’s an ideal foil for the Goose Gratin in the book. If planning a visit, Gusbourne offers both casual platters or full lunches. gusbourne.com

Watercress, Willow and Wine (whitefox, £25) by Cindy-Marie Harvey is available across selected major retailers including Waterstones, Amazon and Cindy-Marie’s website lovewinefood.com.

Featured Image: Getty Images

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How To Celebrate English Wine Week 2023 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/food-and-drink/english-wine-week/ Wed, 07 Jun 2023 12:00:10 +0000 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/?p=228317 English Wine Week is back from 17 – 25 June 2023: the perfect excuse to enjoy a glass or two of vino in the sunshine. Here are some of the ways to get involved this year.
English Wine Week 2023: Everything You Need To Know
English wine is having a moment. For ...

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English Wine Week is back from 17 – 25 June 2023: the perfect excuse to enjoy a glass or two of vino in the sunshine. Here are some of the ways to get involved this year.

English Wine Week 2023: Everything You Need To Know

English wine is having a moment. For many centuries Britain prioritised other forms of agriculture over winemaking, but since the 1950s the industry has undergone something of a renaissance, with the UK now home to almost 600 vineyards.

English sparkling wine, in particular, has gained prestige in recent years – as Hedonism Wine’s general manager Julien Le Doaré explains: ‘The soils in southern England (Kent, Surrey and Sussex) are the same limestone chalk soils as those in Champagne, France, and, with climate change, the climate is getting warm enough to produce very high-quality sparkling wines.’ He adds that, though still wines remain a ‘nascent category in the country, there’s a lot of excitement around this area with red wines from pinot noir grapes, and aromatic whites.’

This revival is celebrated each year at English Wine Week, which has soared in popularity since it first launched in 2006, with more and more vineyards taking part each year.

What is English Wine Week?

Returning from 17 – 25 June 2023, English Wine Week is a national campaign to promote English wines. It takes place annually at the start of summer, when flowering begins in the vineyards, and sees tastings, tours and events taking place across the country.

2023 English Wine Week Events

Pop-up dining experience at Bolney Wine Estate

Sparkling Afternoon Tea at Bolney Wine Estate

Head to Bolney Wine Estate in Sussex, where you can experience a special afternoon tea among the vines. A number of geo-domes will be popping up amid the picturesque greenery, where diners can enjoy an array of sweet and savoury treats (think finger sandwiches, macaroons and scones) alongside a bottle of Bolney Bubbly or Bolney Bubbly Rosé. By night, the domes will be transformed to host a nighttime dining experience. Begin with a glass of fizz and canapes before sitting down to a three-course menu, with dishes made using seasonal Sussex produce, paired with wines. 

23 and 24 June 2023, £110 per couple. bolneywineestate.com

Overnight Stay at The Gallivant Camber Sands

The Gallivant Camber Sands in East Sussex boasts one of the UK’s largest English wine lists. Book its special Discover English Wine Escape this June to enjoy a tour of the local vineyards, plus hosted tastings, followed by a three-course dinner complete with English wines – from Gusbourne Estate to Tillingham. 

thegallivant.co.uk

Sparkling Wine and Afternoon Tea at The Orchid Lounge, Pan Pacific London

Pan Pacific hotel in the City is renowned for its Singaporean-inspired afternoon tea offering, which is getting a special twist for English Wine Week. Guests will be able to enjoy premium sparkling wines from across Southern England while enjoying the Floral Fantasy Afternoon Tea – a seasonal array of pastries, scones and Asian-inspired savoury dishes. The offering features wines including 2011 Breaky Bottom Brut Cuvée Jack Pike, MV Nyetimber Cuvée Chérie Demi Sec and the 2019 Chapel Down Rosé Reserve – all of which have been selected to complement the dishes.

Available from 12pm – 4.30pm Thursday to Monday, from £68pp. panpacific.com

Sopwell House

Sparkling English Wine Afternoon Tea at Sopwell House

Raise a toast to English wine at Sopwell House, a beautiful spa hotel in the Hertfordshire countryside. A quintessentially British afternoon tea includes a selection of finger sandwiches, homemade cakes, pastries and scones, paired with a glass of Greyfriars Blanc De Blanc. Alternatively, visit the Brasserie for seasonal dishes paired with English wines, including producers Chapel Down and Balfour. 

From £34pp. sopwellhouse.co.uk

Pennethorne’s at Somerset House

Somerset House’s stylish wine bar Pennethorne’s is offering a flight of three sparkling wines this English Wine Week. Sip fizz from Hattingley Valley, Nyetimber and Bolney North Down on the terrace before an afternoon spent exploring the venue’s various exhibitions. Keen to learn more? If you visit on 21 June, Restaurant Associates’ wine expert Stephanie Robertson will be hosting a Q&A to give more insight into the wines on offer. 

17 – 25 June 2023. somersethouse.org.uk

Rathfinny's Wine Estate

Food and Wine Tour at Rathfinny

Explore the beautiful Rathfinny estate, accompanied by a guide who will teach you about a typical year of growing vines. You’ll get a behind-the-scenes look inside the winery before tasting four sparkling wines, paired with a selection of local Sussex produce. 

19 – 22 June 2023, £37.50pp. rathfinnyestate.com

The Albury Wine Festival

Take a trip to Albury for its annual festival, which celebrates the Surrey Hills wine region with vineyard tours, wine tasting and masterclasses. Join acclaimed English wine expert John Mobbs for a special Surrey wine tasting, soak up the vineyard views on a tour, and sample a variety of wines from the pop-up bar, alongside cheese and charcuterie boards. 

24 – 25 June 2023, from £12.50pp. alburyvineyard.com

Crab Cracking Masterclass at Furleigh Estate

Learn the art of crab cracking at Furleigh Estate in Dorset, hosted by local fish expert Sally Allan from Sally’s Fish Camp. After kicking things off with a glass of sparkling wine, you’ll learn how to crack, pick and dress a fresh crab, before sitting down to enjoy the fruits of your labour – served with sourdough and locally hand-picked leaves. 

20 June, £85pp. furleighestate.co.uk

Find out more at winegb.co.uk

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A Guide To The Different Types of Champagne https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/food-and-drink/types-of-champagne/ Mon, 05 Jun 2023 11:04:25 +0000 https://www.countryandtownhouse.com/?p=280390 We all love a glass (or three) of fizz – but what should we be looking for when picking a bottle? There are so many different types of Champagne, and the terminology around it can be confusing – from brut to vintage and cru. To help demystify the sparkling world, ...

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We all love a glass (or three) of fizz – but what should we be looking for when picking a bottle? There are so many different types of Champagne, and the terminology around it can be confusing – from brut to vintage and cru. To help demystify the sparkling world, we’ve enlisted the help of Victoria Henson, Director of Champagne Bureau UK

A Guide To The Different Types of Champagne

What are the different ways Champagne can be categorised and differentiated?

By Style

  • Blanc de Blancs: a wine made exclusively from white grapes such as Chardonnay and/or, very occasionally, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Arbane or Petit Meslier, which are the other white grape varieties authorised in Champagne.
  • Blanc de Noirs: a wine made exclusively from dark-skinned grapes such as Pinot Noir and/or Meunier.
  • Rosé: a Champagne Rosé has more colour and body than regular Champagne. It is made either by macerating black grapes or by blending with red Champagne wine.
  • Demi-Sec: a Champagne containing between 32 and 50 grams of sugar per litre. The sugar is added during the ‘dosage’ stage by the dosage liqueur (also known as ‘liqueur d’expédition’).
  • Sec: a Champagne containing between 17 and 32 grams of sugar per litre.
  • Extra Dry: a Champagne containing between 12 and 17 grams of sugar per litre.
  • Doux: a Champagne containing more than 50 grams of sugar per litre, which makes it the sweetest Champagne.
  • Brut: see below.

By Non-Vintage/ Vintage

  • Non-vintage Champagne Brut is the most common Champagne. It is a cuvée which can be a blend of several years. Typically it is the wine for which its style is perpetuated year on year by the brand, and a signature wine.
  • A vintage Champagne is made solely from grapes harvested that same year and therefore does not contain any reserve wines. A producer decides to make a vintage wine when the harvest has been outstanding a particular year. These wines are known for being full of character. The harvest year will be written on the label of the bottle.
Grapes for champagne

Pexels

By Distinguishing A House Champagne/ A Grower Or A Cooperative

Check the label and you will find the registration number and two letters. 

  • RM stands for Récoltants-Manipulants. They are growers who produce and market their own-label Champagne from grapes exclusively sourced from their own vineyards. 
  • RC stands for Récoltant-Coopérateur. A cooperative is a group of growers. They deliver grapes from their own harvest to their cooperative then retrieve from this cooperative the musts or wines in the process of being made or ready to be sold.
  • NM stands for Négociant Manipulant. This is an individual or a company who, in addition to the grapes sourced from their own vines (if they have any), buys grapes, musts or wines to produce Champagne on their own premises.
  • Champagne Houses market their own-label Champagne.

What does ‘brut’ mean and can you tell us about the scale?

A Champagne Brut is a Champagne that contains less than 12 grams of sugar per litre. The sugar is added during the ‘dosage’ stage by the dosage liqueur (also known as ‘liqueur d’expédition’). A Champagne Brut Nature, also called ‘Pas Dosé’ or ‘Dosage Zéro’, contains less than three grams of sugar per litre. No dosage liqueur will have been added to it.

What does ‘cru’ mean and how does it help differentiate champagnes?

A cru corresponds to a winegrowing municipality. The Champagne vineyard area encompasses 319 crus across the five ‘départements’. Before 2007, there was a scale of crus in Champagne. Officially established for the first time in 1911 following discussions between growers and Houses, it was agreed that a cru would be attributed a percentage ranging between 80 and 100 percent. Therefore, a cru with an 80 percent rating received 80 percent of the basic price, while a cru with a 95 percent rating received 95 percent of the basic price, etc.

The Decree of 1 July 1952 officially introduced the terms ‘grand cru’, exclusively for wines from municipalities with a 100 percent rating – and ‘premier cru’, exclusively for wines from municipalities with a 90 to 100 percent rating. In 2010, the INAO scrapped the Champagne cru scale, but agreed that municipalities having previously received a ‘grand cru’ and ‘premier cru’ designation could retain this.

A bottle of Bollinger champagne by the sea

What are the different ageing categories?

Champagne is marketed after a minimum ageing period which allows it to express the tertiary aromas (that come with ageing) of a young wine. Depending on taste and the ageing capabilities of the year (to be determined by the producer), it can be laid down until it develops the tertiary aromas of a more mature Champagne.

All genuine Champagnes must spend at least 15 months maturing in the winemaker’s cellars before release. Vintage cuvées are matured for at least three years. In practice though, this statutory timeframe – already significant compared to other sparkling wines – is almost always longer in Champagne: two to three years for non-vintage wines and four to ten years for vintage Champagne.

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