The Catey Awards: Who Were This Year’s Winners?

A number of British chefs were celebrated in the 2023 Catey Awards. Blanc was awarded with The Ruby Catey, a one-off accolade created to mark the Cateys’ 40th anniversary, for ‘redefining British hospitality and setting the benchmark for delivering sustainable gastronomy during a stellar career spanning more than five decades.’

Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir

The 2023 Chef Award, meanwhile, went to Gareth Ward, head chef of Ynyshir. Ward is no stranger to awards: Ynyshir recently came out tops in the National Restaurant Awards for the second year running. When presenting his Catey, the judges described Ward as a ‘maverick’ who had transformed fine dining.

Ynyshir

Clare Smyth MBE, who heads up the three Michelin-starred Core by Clare Smyth in Notting Hill, won independent Restaurateur of the Year.

Scooping up The Special Award was Jeremy Goring, who was lauded for his efforts to help homeless people into roles of hospitality, which he did through the Hotel School. And Jason Atherton, who owns an array of restaurants all over the world, was presented with The International Award. 

Jacuzzi

On the restaurant side, Big Mamma Group was presented with group Restaurant of the Year for its collection of Italian-inspired trattorias. Founded by Tigrane Seydoux and Victor Lugger, Big Mamma Group was born in Paris, with East Mamma opening back in 2013. Over the years the group has expanded around Europe, with a number of restaurants dotted around London including recent openings Carlotta and Jacuzzi.

The Catey Awards are run by The Caterer, with winners chosen by a panel of industry experts. ‘This was a real milestone evening in the long history of the Cateys,’ said The Caterer’s editor James Stagg. ‘Celebrating the 40th anniversary of excellence in hospitality has given us the chance to appreciate the outstanding talent in the industry and those who have set the standards that are continually built upon.’

Here is the full list of winners.

• Foodservice Caterer Award, sponsored by Umbrella Training: Morag Freathy, Eurest
• Hotel of the Year – Group, sponsored by Caterer.com: Pan Pacific London 
• Best Employer, sponsored by mapal os: Red Carnation Hotel Collection
• Sustainable Business Award, sponsored by Violife Professional: Red Carnation Hotel Collection 
• Education and Training Award, sponsored by Liberty Wines: Steve Munkley, Craft Guild of Chefs 
• Wine and Spirit Ambassador Award, sponsored by Matthew Clark: Romain Bourger, the Vineyard, Berkshire
• Accessibility Award, sponsored by Blue Badge Access Awards: AbleStay 
• Public Sector Caterer Award, sponsored by Bidfood: Jayne Jones, Argyll and Bute Council
• Restaurateur of the Year – Group, sponsored by Entegra: Victor Lugger and Tigrane Seydoux, Big Mamma Group
• Pub and Bar Award, sponsored by Britvic: Chestnut Group
• Manager of the Year Award, sponsored by Hotel, Restaurant & Catering: Francisco Macedo, Cliveden House, Berkshire
• Restaurateur of the Year – Independent, sponsored by Venners: Clare Smyth, CS Hospitality
• Newcomer Award, sponsored by MPLC: Culinera
• Menu of the Year Award, sponsored by Commercial Kitchen: Plates, London
• Best Marketing Campaign Award, sponsored by Amadeus: The Genuine Dining Co (JAAQ Cof ee – Changing Mental Health One Cof ee At A Time) 
• Best Use of Technology Award, Sponsored by Enhance Hospitality/Logit: The Lowry hotel, Manchester
• Health and Nutrition Award, sponsored by Brakes: Thomas Franks
• Chef Award, sponsored by Brakes: Gareth Ward, Ynyshir, Ceredigion
• Hotel of the Year – Independent, sponsored by Miele: Yorebridge House
• International Outstanding Achievement Award, sponsored by harri: Jason Atherton
• Special Award, sponsored by CH&Co: Jeremy Goring
• Lifetime Achievement Award, sponsored by Britvic: Bill Toner
• Ruby Award, sponsored by P&O Cruises: Raymond Blanc

Find out more at cateys.com

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16 Best Tasting Menus in London

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Q&A with Nancy Singleton Hachisu

Tell us about your new book. What was your ambition in writing it?

Vegetarian Japanese cuisine as a genre is often overlooked in Japanese cookbooks outside of Japan – perhaps because Japanese vegetarian cuisine is a bit out of reach for most visitors to Japan. Unless one goes to special temple food restaurants, mostly you will not find eateries in Japan dedicated to vegetarian cuisine. Ambition is a big word, but I guess I hope that the book will allow people to prepare vegetable-forward Japanese meals in their homes since these dishes are less likely to be found in restaurants outside of Japan.

How would you describe your food ethos?

When I first came to Japan in 1988, I had a vague yet basic knowledge of the seasons. But after several years of only eating the seasonal organic vegetables we had on the field, I reached a point where these were the only vegetables that had taste. I am not sure if this speaks to food ethos or just a way of life. As the years went by and finances improved, I increasingly sought out better and better pantry items. Yet it was not until I began publishing Japanese cookbooks (after living in Japan for almost 25 years!) that I truly dove into researching and understanding Japanese artisanal ingredients. So, regarding food ethos, I suppose you can say that I am a staunch supporter of, and advocate for, these disappearing food traditions – and that is why I write about them and share their tastes with the world when I am on tour.

When did you first become interested in food?

I remember eating spinach that my father had cooked and served us on the outside patio of the house we lived in until I was five years old. For some reason we all loved spinach! Also, there is a photo of me from around that age where I am concentrating intensely on dipping my graham crackers in my milk – I cannot remember a time when I was not hyper interested in the food around me. I started baking cookies when I was about 10 years old and soon moved onto bread, since it did not require many ingredients. From there I progressed to making dinners for the family and cooking became a way I expressed myself and found my center.

How did you find yourself living in Japan?

After Stanford, I found myself working in the bar and restaurant business in San Francisco for about eight years. It was a lot of fun and a very intense food educational experience but maybe too much fun! I decided to apply to law school and at the same time get a masters in East Asian Studies/Japanese because it seemed wasteful not to add another language into my repertoire if I was going to graduate school. Why Japanese? Because I loved sushi. The peaceful feeling that enveloped me when I slipped into a seat and style of eating a few bites of raw fish and rice at a time grabbed me deeply. I went to Japan, intending to stay for a year to get some basics in Japanese, but ended up staying for the last 35 years because I got caught by the Japanese farmer boy!

How does the food scene in California compare with that of Japan?

Although I visit California a few times a year, I haven’t lived there in more than three decades. But my impression is that there are a lot more organics and there is a hyper awareness regarding local ingredients that is still resurging here in Japan. The food all over America (and even California) became quite bad in the name of convenience but thankfully it is slowly getting better. Japan did not get as bad, but most definitely, convenience foods are a way of life here. Farmers markets are not common, but each country town has their own Japan agriculture stand, so there is hope. Organics are still only 0.003 percent of all vegetables, but the tide is slowly turning.

Any top tips for cooking Japanese vegetarian food?

Stock your pantry with the best available Japanese base seasonings and then use good local vegetables.

What would you cook for an easy meal at home?

• Western: Local Japanese fish meuniere, field greens salad and herbs with best olive oil and artisanal rice vinegar, small boiled potatoes with butter and parsley, green beans with fresh tomato coulis.
• Japanese: simple brown rice miso soup with cubes of silken tofu, strips of usuage (fried tofu), and chopped negi (scallions), chrysanthemum greens goma-ae (sesame sauce), cucumber in ginger vinegar, and a small bowl of my husband’s rice.

Three most important ingredients in Japanese cooking?

I don’t think I can keep the most important ingredients to three! Here are the top five: miso, shoyu, mirin, rice vinegar, and Japanese sea salt.

Most memorable meal of all time?

• In Japan: Any time I eat alone at Kisetsu Ryori Nakashima in Hiroshima.
• In the world: Sunday lunch at Maison Sota in Paris.

Japan: The Vegetarian Cookbook by Nancy Singleton Hachisu is out now (Phaidon Press)

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Royal Ascot: Food & Drink Guide

From picnics to afternoon tea, champagne bars to fine dining, there’s a wide variety of food and drink to enjoy at Royal Ascot, spread across the four different enclosures. Jonathan Parker, Managing Director of 1711 by Ascot, says: ‘I believe Royal Ascot to be the single biggest collection of stars – both on and off the track – of any British sporting event, and this year’s line-up demonstrates the breadth of innovation and style found across the UK’s culinary scene.

‘Over the past 300 years, Ascot has established itself as one of the highlights of the British summer season and the food and drink experience plays an intrinsic part of a day at Royal Ascot,’ says Jonathan.

The Royal Enclosure

The most exclusive enclosure at the event, the invitation-only Royal Enclosure has a suitably luxurious food and drink offering.

Holyroodhouse

Making her Royal Ascot debut this year is Great British Menu chef Sally Abé, who rose to fame at Michelin-starred pub The Harwood Arms, and now heads up The Pem in the Conrad London St James hotel. At this year’s Royal Ascot, she’ll be at the helm of Holyroodhouse restaurant, which overlooks the Pre-Parade Ring. Think Scottish-inspired interiors, an inside-outside feel, and a tasting menu using top-quality British ingredients.

Panoramic

Undoubtedly one of the most special dining spots at Royal Ascot is Panoramic Restaurant, located on the sixth floor of the Grandstand and boasting uninterrupted views of the racecourse. The event’s chef-in-residence Raymond Blanc OBE is running its kitchen for the eighth year running, so you can guarantee top-quality food. Dishes on the menu this year include sea bream ceviche with cured salmon, Royal Estate saddle of lamb with stuffed courgette flower, and a strawberry and vanilla panna cotta meringue. 

Parade Ring Restaurant

Another big culinary name returning to Royal Ascot is three Michelin-starred chef Simon Rogan, whose famed Lake District restaurant L’Enclume celebrated its 20th anniversary last year. This year, he’ll be cooking in the Parade Ring Restaurant for the first time – a prestigious spot which overlooks the Parade Ring, meaning guests can see the horses before they head to the track. Rogan will be bringing his green ethos to the restaurant, focusing on local, seasonal ingredients. Your meal could look something like: cured salmon with miso and wasabi caviar, beef fillet with Lyonnaise potato and confit gold carrot, and treacle tart with green apple and rosemary.

The Queen Anne Enclosure

Located around the Ascot Grandstand, The Queen Ascot Enclosure is the second most formal enclosure at the event, with an array of fine dining options alongside bars and champagne lounges. 

ON5

You’re in the heart of the racing action at the Queen Ascot Enclosure’s flagship restaurant, which sits on the fifth floor and has its own viewing balcony and private outdoor terrace overlooking the racecourse. Two Michelin-starred chef Brett Graham, chef patron of The Ledbury in Notting Hill, will be returning to Royal Ascot this year to oversee ON5. He’ll be bringing his elegant style of cooking to the restaurant, serving a four-course lunch paired with fine wines.

The Lawn Club

For more informal dining within the Queen Anne Enclosure, head to The Lawn Club. Set within a track-facing marquee, it’s a great spot for catching the Royal Procession and all the races, just 300m from the winning line. Visitors can enjoy a buffet-style lunch or afternoon tea, alongside wine, beers, champagne and soft drinks.

Village Enclosure

The Village Enclosure is a grassed outdoor area with a garden party feel and live music. Here you can find a variety of street food pop-ups, bars and a couple of sit-down restaurants. On the go options include tapas and cured meats from East London favourite Smokehouse by Hotbox, croque monsieurs from Raymond Blanc, Japanese street food from Mai Taiko and more. 

There’s also a trackside Moët & Chandon champagne bar, and a full draft bar offering a wide selection of spirits and beers. Prefer a picnic? Pre-order one of Fortnum & Mason’s hampers, complete with cheeses, salads and more. Diners after something more formal, meanwhile, can book The Restaurant in the Village, where you’ll be treated to a prosecco reception ahead of a three-course lunch and afternoon tea.

Windsor Enclosure

This enclosure has the most laid-back atmosphere, making it ideal for large groups of friends. There are picnicking lawns and you can bring your own food, though it must be in a picnic hamper or cool bag/box. Here, racegoers can also expect artisan food stalls, champagne and Pimm’s bars, and live music playing into the evening.

Find out more and book at ascot.com

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9 Chefs Share Their Top BBQ Tips

Jack Stein, Chef Director at Rick Stein

‘Fish on a BBQ is fantastic – make sure you marinade and cook in tin foil, as this will stop the skin sticking to the grill and retain the delicious flavour round the fish. Don’t forget vegetables either, there’s more to a BBQ than meat and veggies like lettuce or hispi cabbage taste great grilled with that smokey, charred flavour.’ rickstein.com   

Sofian Msetfi, Executive Chef at Ormer Mayfair by Sofian 

‘Achieve the perfect smoky flavour by adding wood to your BBQ, but be careful not to overdo as you don’t want an acrid taste. Try adding it slowly to let the flavour build gradually. Of course, you’ve got to add plenty of seasoning throughout – barbecued meat, fish and veg will stand up to any combination so don’t be afraid of experimenting.’ flemings-mayfair.co.uk

Theo Randall, Chef Patron at Theo Randall at the Intercontinental 

‘Don’t oil vegetables you’re grilling, as burnt oil will overpower the vegetables leaving an unpleasant aftertaste. The best way is to make sure your BBQ is the right temperature and grill the vegetables dry, then once cooked place them on a wire rack and marinate in some good olive oil, fresh lemon and herbs. Grill slowly too, so that any fat from meat doesn’t catch fire – a good BBQ should be glowing, not flaming.’ theorandall.com  

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Gopi Chandran, Executive Head Chef at Sopwell House 

‘It’s important to use the right charcoal – I always use lump wood charcoal as it burns longer, evenly and lights easily. Once you light it, wait for the flames to die down. You are ready to grill when the embers are glowing.’ sopwellhouse.co.uk  

Nick Yung, Head Chef at Straits Kitchen, Pan Pacific London 

‘Maintain a consistent temperature with a lidded BBQ, high-quality charcoal, and cooking meat indirectly, positioning it away from instead of straight over the hottest coals. I’d also recommend trying Durian on the BBQ – grilling the fruit makes the flesh more moist, giving the fruit a creamier, sweeter, and slightly smoky flavour.’ panpacificlondon.com

Kerth Gumbs, Head Chef at Fenchurch, Sky Garden 

‘Marinate your meat ahead of time – I like to marinate mine at least 24 hours in advance to really let the spices penetrate the meat. Typically, I like to use a mix of chillies, thyme, garlic, spring onion, ginger, pimento, oil paprika & my homemade favourite Sazon. For shellfish, keep them in a slightly cooler spot for longer on the grill, to absorb more of the smoky flavour.’ skygarden.london

Daniel Burrell, Executive Chef at The Montagu Arms in Beaulieu, New Forest 

‘I’m a strong believer in brining your meat before a BBQ. This pre-seasons the meat and keeps it nice and juicy. The best brine for me is 24hrs with a 10 percent sugar and 10 percent salt mix (800ml water, 100g salt, 100g brown sugar.) Bring this mixture to the boil and leave to cool. Soak white meats in this such as pork and chicken for deliciously tender dishes. 

‘A secret hack of mine is to chuck some herbs like rosemary or thyme into the hot coals as you’re cooking the meats, which not only gives it a great flavour, but the aroma is likely to make the neighbours jealous!’ montaguarmshotel.co.uk  

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Mike Reid, Culinary Director at Rare Restaurants

‘Pimp up your salads with some barbecued fruits. For the best flavour and price, always go for what’s in season; some of my BBQ favourites are peaches, watermelon, mango, apple and pear. To cook, you’ll need a medium heat for the grill and be sure not to add any fat as you want the fruit to release its natural sugars and caramelise.’ gauchorestaurants.com  

Jonas Karlsson, Head Chef at Aquavit London, St James’s Market  

‘With BBQs, the key is to keep things simple as often it can be over complicated. I recommend having a sweet and sour glaze to brush the cooked meat with – it adds an amazing shine and incredible burst of flavour. It’s also versatile and goes well with any meat so is a must for BBQ season.’ aquavitrestaurants.com

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Chaya Maya on Tropical Flavours, Spice, and her Mauritian Heritage

What’s your first memory of food?

Picking mangoes from the ground as they fell from the trees in our garden in Mauritius. I would eat them without washing as a child, which always drove my mum mad. They were the best mangoes in the world. I still haven’t eaten one quite like it anywhere else. Mangoes taste better in Mauritius. It’s the volcanic soil and sea air that makes it so delicious, I think.

Do you grow your own fruit and vegetables?

My family and I grow a lot of veg and fruit in our garden. Both in Mauritius and in London. In Mauritius, my family have fruit orchards and we have a kitchen garden for regular herbs and fresh veg at the back of the house.  I am a big fan of growing in pots in London, due to the lack of space. I have herbs on the windowsill and a lemon tree wrapped up warm in my living room. I love that summer is here. My garden is so lush with veg, tomatoes, strawberries and herbs. The heat does wonders for it. One vegetable that I haven’t been able to grow successfully in London is aubergines. They need a lot of heat, and the weather doesn’t always behave. I am, however, hopeful. 

Any kitchen fails? 

I will tell you about my worst experiment. I think I was about 11 when my mum allowed me to cook unsupervised in the kitchen. I love feeding people, so it was a great joy to be able to pick a mealtime to cook for. During those early teenage years, I picked teatime. In Mauritius, teatime is always around 3pm and you always make a little sweet or savoury snack to tide you over until dinner time. Once, I famously made two vats of green and pink custard to go along matching green and pink crepes. The worst bit wasn’t the colour, it was the lumpy/blobby custard that I had botched. No one ate it (rightly so) but it broke my heart. My family still giggles about it. I do too. I won’t tell you about the time I made four-inch-thick bready pizza as a 13-year-old, with large pieces of soggy pineapple on the top. It took ages to cook! We didn’t eat pizza that night.  

What are you cooking up in the test kitchen at the moment?

The list is very long. It’s too many recipes to list.  There are five of us who create and test recipes at the test kitchen. We are all working on different projects and for different publications.

What is my favourite dessert? 

Is cake dessert? Maybe not. My favourite cake is the ricotta and hazelnut cake in the Ottolenghi cake display. It’s deeply hazelnutty with just the right amount of chocolate. The ricotta gives wonderful texture and keeps it very moist. My favourite dessert has to be the Creme Caramel: slightly bitter caramel and a super silky creme. I could eat a few at a time. Creme brulee is a close second. Although I only like the creme part.

Which are your favourite ingredients to work with and why?

Coming from an island, I have great love for seafood and seaweed. The abundance of sunshine and great volcanic soil means that I grew up eating a lot of fresh local ingredients. When I cook away from home, that is what I find myself naturally looking for in the ingredients I use. Tamarind is one of my favourite ingredients and unfortunately, it’s not local to the UK. I am so grateful that it is so widely available now in most grocery shops.

What else have you coming up this year?

I have a few pop ups in London during this year. They will all be inspired by my Mauritian heritage. I will be cooking for Freedom from Torture’s annual Street Feast event at BAFTA with my ex-Ottolenghi colleague Abhishek Bhide. We both have a great love for spices. It’s our first collaboration and we will be bringing some bold and big flavours to the FFT Street Feast. Here, eight of my colleagues and I will be donating cooking classes and private dining experiences as auction prizes. The auction will be held on the day on the 22 June and for anyone who cannot make it in person, online bidding is now open. 

Catch Chaya at The Great Street Feast charity event to mark Refugee Week on 22nd June at BAFTA Piccadilly.

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Stuart Ralston’s culinary career has taken him through some of the best kitchens in the UK, the US and the Caribbean, cooking for stars of the TV, film, music and fashion industries. He opened Aizle with his wife Krystal in 2014, where it made its mark as one of Edinburgh’s best loved eateries. There’s no traditional menu on display: instead guests are privy only to a list of ingredients which are used in the six-course tasting menu, dictated wholly by what is local and in season. Stuart’s menus are influenced by classical French styles and Asian cuisine, drawing inspiration from the flavours of Japan.

Stuart also owns a restaurant in the city centre: Noto, a New York-inspired restaurant named after Stuart’s late friend Bob Noto, who took Stuart under his wing when he first arrived in the Big Apple. Noto offers an international repertoire of small and large dishes, with a focus on Asian and American cuisine – the menu features pork bao buns, but also fried buttermilk chicken with waffles. Here, Stuart gives us his recommendations for the best restaurants in Edinburgh.

Stuart’s Pick: The Best Places to Eat in Edinburgh

‘Edinburgh’s dining scene is in a good place, with plenty of choice and plenty of quality independent food and drink businesses, from Michelin stars to casual bistros. I have operated Aizle now for over five years and our business has grown and grown in that time, despite not being in the most central location, which tells me that people will travel a little for quality.

‘I think the future seems a little uncertain: rising rents, business rates and a constant influx of corporations makes being competitive very hard without larger investment so I have huge respect for the independents still battling it out. All in all I feel lucky to live and work as part of Edinburgh’s scene and would like to continue to grow within the city and see where it takes me next.’

Yamato

I was always a big fan of Kanpai on Grindlay St, but their sister restaurant Yamato is my new go-to place. I love Japanese cuisine anyway but they always have Toro Tuna belly which I love. yamatosushiedinburgh.co.uk

Eddie’s Seafood Market & Fishmongers

Eddie’s Seafood Market is a local legend which has been there for years – my wife Krystal shops there often for our little boy Sonny, they have amazing fish. It’s a true neighbourhood business in the sense that its in a great location for families, has great prices and the service is second to none. eddiesseafood.co.uk

Company Bakery

A new venture from a few local independents including Hollie Love Reid from Lovecrumbs, Company Bakery mill their own flour and have a great ethos. I really love their sourdough, we’ve used it for off-site events before. companybakery.com

IJ Mellis Cheesemonger

I have used Mellis for cheese for as long as I can remember. They always give out samples and introduce you to new cheeses, charcuterie and condiments – and what’s better than cheese and bread? They’re my favourite snacks to go with a glass of great wine with friends. mellischeese.net

Mary’s Milk Bar

My son’s favourite treat is ice cream and Mary’s Milk Bar does great gelato; it’s a nice way to spend a sunny day with my boy when he has been well behaved. My favourite flavour is salted caramel, but Sonny is more of a traditionalist chocolate gelato man. marysmilkbar.com

Our Top Picks: Best Edinburgh Restaurants

Ting Thai Caravan

Beginning as as a small pop-up with just four dishes, Ting Thai Caravan is now a hugely popular Thai restaurant, with interesting, hearty dishes for great prices. Just down the road you’ll find its younger sibling, Saboteur  – a cool Vietnamese street food restaurant serving up irresistible bao buns to a young crowd. tingthai-caravan.com

The Gardener’s Cottage

Another Edinburgh gem is The Gardener’s Cottage, a magical space housed in – you guessed it – a former single-storey gardener’s cottage. Found at the foot of Calton Hill, the restaurant is made up of two small dining rooms with three communal tables. The cottage itself dates all the way back to the 1800s, and stood for many years as the home to the gardener of Edinburgh’s Royal Terrace Gardens. When the cottage became derelict in 2012, chef duo Ed Murray and Dale Mailley bagged the rights to transform it into a restaurant, complete with a resident gardener, Charlie, who grows fruit, vegetables and herbs in the front garden. Food is seasonal – naturally – with no printed menu and dishes reflecting the best ingredients available that day. Dale also heads up The Lookout, which opened in 2019 after much anticipation. Perched at the top of Calton Hill, it’s a smart spot boasting floor-to-ceiling views of the city, with a refined menu to match. thegardenerscottage.co

Hula Juice Bar & Gallery

Get your brunch fix at Hula Juice Bar in Grassmarket, which serves up smoothie bowls, sourdough sandwiches and colourful salads to Edinburgh’s health foodies. hula.co.uk

Twelve Triangles

Popular Edinburgh bakery Twelve Triangles has four branches across Edinburgh, all of which stock a mouth-watering selection of breads, pastries and doughnuts. Run by former costume designer Rachel Morgan and baker Emily Cuddeford, everything is handmade daily, using local, seasonal and organic ingredients where possible, including flour milled locally by Mungoswells Millers in East Lothian. Don’t miss the brownies. twelvetriangles.co.uk

Fhior

Scott Smith fans were left saddened by the closure of his debut restaurant, Norn – but luckily they didn’t have to wait long to taste his cooking again. His second venture, Fhior, opened its doors on Broughton Street in summer 2019, with a focus on honesty (‘Fhior’ translates as true in Gaelic): really good quality modern Scottish cuisine and a relaxed atmosphere. fhior.com

Timberyard

A friendly, family-run restaurant found on Lady Lawson Street, Timberyard is a must-visit in Edinburgh. It offers a new Nordic approach to Scottish food, with set menus ranging from four to six courses, with pescatarian and vegetarian options available. Dishes include the likes of ox tartare, glazed hake and sea kale, barbecued leek with potato and smoked curd, and a delicious carrot and walnut cake. timberyard.co

The Scran & Scallie

A walk through Stockbridge (start all the way in Dean Village and wend your way along the river) will take you to the doorstep of The Scran & Scallie, and rest assured, they will take it from there. Characterful, knowledgable and witty restaurant staff will make you feel right at home, and the interiors help to this effect. A cosy, brick fire place, fluffy chair throw here and there, plus whimsical wall paper are all homey, stylish and Scottish. Now is the time to go for pub classics: The Scran & Scallie steak pie is the house favourite. scranandscallie.com

Archipelago Bakery

A small, off-the-tourist-track bakery in Edinburgh’s new town, Archipelago Bakery serves up fresh bread, salads and brownies, all made by friendly founder Caroline. The outdoor tables are perfect for sunny brunches and lunches. archipelagobakery.com

The Little Chartroom

Isabel McCabe

Opened in 2020 by husband-wife duo Roberta Hall-McCarron (formerly Castle Terrace and The Kitchin) and Shaun McCarron, The Little Chartroom is a lovely neighbourhood restaurant located in the up-and-coming area of Leith. Interiors are cosy, food is creative and flavoursome, and it’s perfectly located for Fringe events at the top of Edinburgh’s Leith Walk. thelittlechartroom.com

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Cutting Food Waste: 6 Ingredients You’re Throwing Away That You Could Reuse

Coffee 

‘After making a pot of coffee, don’t throw away your used coffee grounds, as these can be used to make a delicious meat rub. Take the leftover or excess grounds from your machine or cafetiere and mix with salt, pepper, and spices such as smoked paprika, chilli flakes, garlic powder, ground coriander and cayenne pepper. This will create a flavourful rub which you can smother onto pork belly, beef brisket and even steak, to bring out some tasty flavours.’

Artichokes 

‘Artichokes are really versatile and can be used in many ways. We make a silky hummus out of them in the restaurant, but we don’t throw away the peelings, and instead dehydrate these and then either fry them to use as a crisp or blend to turn into a salt for seasoning.  

‘At home you can do this by drying out the peelings, then seasoning with salt and pepper and adding a drizzle of olive oil and lemon juice. Then either put them in your oven on low heat for three to four hours, or if you have an air fryer, fry them in that for extra crunch. You’ll now have healthy, flavourful crisps, which you can dip into hummus or aioli.’

Chillies 

‘When cooking at home using fresh chillies it’s common to throw away the stalks and ends of the chilli, especially if you don’t want to add too much spice. Instead, save the tops and stalks and immerse in olive oil, creating a chilli infused oil that will elevate your cooking – we use this method to enhance our dishes and make a spicy emulsion for our Forage Fried Chicken. 

‘Chillies are also often bought in packs, so you may not get a chance to use all of them before they start to turn. We like to pickle chillies to use in our herb zhug – a thick hot sauce that accompanies prawns on our menu – and this method can preserve the vegetables for longer. Drop your excess whole chillies into a glass jar and then cook off some vinegar, coriander seeds, mustard seeds, salt and sugar in a saucepan. Pour this liquid into the jar and leave overnight and you’ll have lovely pickled chillies to use for months.’

Garlic and Onion Skins 

‘Onion and garlic are staples in most dishes, and the amount of onion and garlic peels thrown away quickly adds up. You can use the skins to turn into seasoning, saving you money on shop-bought onion or garlic powder. Give the skins a quick rinse and dry out on a rack, then bake in the oven for around three hours. Once they come out all crispy, pop them in a blender and you’ve homemade garlic or onion powder. 

‘You can also use the skins to make your own stock, by boiling in water with carrots, celery, herbs and spices with any meat juices you have left over from cooking. Then strain and you have a delicious stock.’

Strawberry Leaves 

‘Strawberries are a delicate summer treat and while we use them for drinks and desserts, many people cut off and discard the tops. The leaves however are perfectly edible, and you can use them to turn a plain vodka or gin into a tangy-sweet strawberry-infused spirit – similar to how we do in the distillery at Forage.  

‘Take all the tops from a 500g box of strawberries and add to a jar or glass bottle. Pour over vodka so the vessel is filled and then leave for a few days and you’ll have your strawberry-top vodka to use in cocktails, or drink on its own with soda and lime. If you want a nice cocktail to drink immediately, you can also make a delectable daiquiri by blending up a few shots of rum, juice from a lime, two tablespoons of sugar syrup, some ice and a couple of handfuls of whole strawberries – with the tops on!’

Chicken Skin

‘Instead of throwing away chicken skins from your Sunday roast, reheat in olive oil and then pan fry for three to four minutes until golden brown. These little crispy bits can be used to enhance stir fries, salads and other dishes throughout the week. Remember to save the oil you’ve cooked your chicken skins in – the fat will have combined with the oil to be extra tasty to use in your cooking, such as flavour-packed roasted vegetables.’

The post 6 Ingredients You’re Throwing Away That You Could Reuse appeared first on Country and Town House.

Best Vegan Cooking Classes in the UK

The Grand, York

Housed in an impressive Edwardian building in the former headquarters of the North Eastern Railway, The Grand is one of York’s top hotels. Alongside its dreamy spa and high-end restaurant, the hotel is home to a cookery school, which offers courses for novices and aspiring chefs alike. The programme includes a number of vegan-focused classes, where you can learn to make everything from laksa to ravioli – all without the use of animal products. Students will get hands-on training on how to make vegetables the focal point of the dish, plus more general skills such as presentation and using knives. Afterwards, treat yourself to a stay in one of the hotel’s luxurious rooms.

Station Rise, York YO1 6GD, thegrandyork.co.uk

Demuths, Bath

Rachel Demuth built up a cult following of plant-based diners at her eponymous restaurant in Bath, which she ran for 26 years. In 2001, she decided to branch out and spread her love for veggies in another way: by teaching cookery classes. She started off running these in her own kitchen before launching a purpose-built space site in the centre of the city, which specialises in vegan cooking classes. Courses range from short evening sessions to a full-blown diploma, which has become well-known within the vegan community. The former are either a couple of hours, a half day or a full day long, covering themes like Indian street food, brunch, pasta making or Middle Eastern cuisine, while the diploma is a more thorough course, taught over six weeks.

6 Terrace Walk, Bath BA1 1LN, demuths.co.uk

Leiths, London

One of the UK’s most prestigious cookery schools, Leiths was founded in 1975 by the legendary Prue Leith. Its year-long diploma programme is renowned in the industry, with many graduates going on to become top chefs, recipe developers and food stylists – but there are many other courses on offer too, many of which are beginner-friendly. The school has also upped its vegan offering in recent years, with a number of different plant-based classes on offer such as The Essential Vegan, where you’ll spend a day learning how to adjust classic recipes that usually contain animal products. There’s also the Plant-Based Essential Cooking Certificate, a more intensive course designed to teach the fundamentals of professional cooking, with a sole focus on vegan food.

16-20 Wendell Rd, London W12 9RT, leiths.com

Our Lizzy, Malvern

Lizzy Hughes spent years teaching primary school children in Birmingham, going on to do a diploma in veggie cuisine. She later decided to combine both her passions – teaching and plant-based food – and launched Our Lizzy: a vegan cookery school in Malvern, Worcestershire. Workshops tend to run from 10am–3.45pm, and cover everything from vegan baking to cooking with tofu and Greek mezze. Classes are small and intimate, open to up to six guests, and the venue also serves as a B&B. 

59 Howsell Rd, Malvern WR14 1TH, ourlizzy.com

Plant Academy, London

Founded by vegan foodie Lauren Lovatt following a successful Kickstarter campaign, Plant Academy in East London is a culinary school offering online and in-person plant-based training. There are three core courses available: Plant One, Plant Two and Plant Three, all aimed at different levels of expertise, covering topics like fermentation, medicinal mushrooms and plant-based desserts. You can also tune into live workshops – coming up is a session on teas, tinctures and tonics – and there are a series of videos available to watch on-demand, which explore subjects like batch cooking and vegan cheese.

Studio 4, 1 Darnley Rd, London E9 6QH, plantacademy.co.uk

Natural Cookery School, Gloucestershire

Chef Erin Baker made a name for herself at her organic café Woodruffs before deciding to launch her very own vegan cookery school. She runs a range of classes from her state-of-the-art kitchen in Nailsworth, which involve working in small groups to create tasty plant-based recipes – whether that’s one pot winter wonders, desserts or Mexican street food. If you’re looking for something more thorough, the five-day Natural Kitchen cooking course offers a week of hands-on cooking focused around seasonal and organic meals.

Days Mill, Old Market, Nailsworth, Stroud GL6 0DU, naturalcookeryschool.com

Photography by Marcus Duran

Made in Hackney, London

Vegan community cookery school Made in Hackney was born in 2012 with the aim of bringing about positive change through the power of plants. It aims to address pressing issues of climate change, health inequality and food access in a number of ways – from providing emergency plant-based meals to those in need to offering education surrounding vegan cooking. The school offers an array of classes at its Hackney HQ – though these can be brought to other locations, whether that’s an office, a school or a community centre – and workshops cover everything from plant-based nutrition to gourmet vegan cooking and raw desserts. You can also take part in online classes: coming up there’s a lesson on cooking with jackfruit, a fermenting class and a session on plant-based cooking for hormone health.

Liberty Hall, 128 Clapton Common, London E5 9AA, madeinhackney.org

The Veg Society

With its roots in the reforming spirit of the early 19th century, The Vegetarian Society has been around for many years – and even its cookery school dates back to the 1980s, meaning plenty of years of experience. Based in Altrincham in Manchester, the school offers a variety of classes for all abilities, from a vegan sushi workshop to a session on how to make seitan and an introduction to tofu. Plenty of its veggie classes can be made suitable for vegans too.

Parkdale, Dunham Rd, Altrincham WA14 4QG, vegsoc.org

Featured image: Getty Images

The post The UK’s Best Vegan Cooking Classes For 2023 appeared first on Country and Town House.

The Best Restaurants in Oxford 2023

• The Alice
• Wilding
• Pierre Victoire
• Pompette
• The Perch
• Old Parsonage
• The Magdalen Arms
• Brasserie Blanc
• The Rickety Press
• Cherwell Boathouse
• Kazbar
• Quod Restaurant & Bar
• The Grand Cafe

The Alice

Oxford alumni Lewis Carroll provides the inspiration for The Randolph Hotel’s restaurant, The Alice. Spearheaded by Executive Chef Rhys Grayson, the all-day eatery is seasonally driven, largely supported by local farmers. Alongside the restaurant sits The Snug, an intimate cocktail lounge with the spirit of a bohemian English library serving snacks and drinks from the main restaurant menu. Bringing together the Alice in Wonderland theme is illustrator John Broadley, who has created whimsical menu artwork for the hotel.

Address: The Randolph Hotel, Beaumont St, Oxford OX1 2LN

BOOK: thealiceoxford.com

Wilding

Wilding is a lovely little restaurant and wine bar in Jericho. Its name comes from the practice of regenerating overworked land to return it to nature, an ethos that sits at the heart of the venue. Founder Kent Barker aims to create somewhere where wine and food are matched in an unpretentious and engaging way. Dominique Goltinger (ex-Bistrot Bruno Loubet) heads up the kitchen, which offers a seasonally-changing menu – think sweetcorn ribs with tahini dressing and chorizo and chickpea stew – with everything designed to pair well with wines from the 400-bottle strong list. Dine in the large indoor dining room, or go al fresco on the 60-cover garden terrace.

Address: 11-12 Little Clarendon St, Oxford OX1 2HP

BOOK: wilding.wine

Pierre Victoire

This independent French bistro is perfect if you’re wanting a low key but authentic culinary evening. Expect good value for money (a fixed £24.50 for three courses, not bad at all), with an array of French cuisine on offer: escargots, moules frites, confit de canard – the cult classics.

Address: 5 Dean St, London W1D 3RQ

BOOK: pierrevictoire.co.uk

Pompette

Located in the pretty suburb of Summertown, Pompette – the French word for tipsy – serves up a European-inspired menu, with nods to head chef Pascal Wiedemann’s French roots. Enjoy cured meats sand cheese paired with a selection of European wines at the charcuterie wine bar, or opt for a more formal dinner in the dining room. Pascal’s maximum favour, minimum waste ethos is reflected throughout the menu, with current dishes on the menu including cod with butter beans and chorizo; burrata with grilled radicchio; and Blythburgh pork chop with pommes purée.

Address: 7 S Parade, Summertown, Oxford OX2 7JL

BOOK: pompetterestaurant.co.uk

The Perch

Another Oxford pub with a ‘gastro’ concept is The Perch. Tucked away next to the canal, cycling here on a warm day is quite special. The food is very simple – don’t expect anything majestic. But if you’re in need of some fish and chips and a pint of ale, you’ll be hard-pressed to find better.

Address: Binsey Ln, Binsey, Oxford OX2 0NG

BOOK: the-perch.co.uk

Old Parsonage

The Old Parsonage Hotel and its restaurant are a somewhat swankier affair entirely. It’s where the socialites of Oxford hang out in town before drinking Zombies at Lola Lo. The restaurant is less formal than its sister outfit Quod, though, and focuses on afternoon teas and all-day dining. But it’s more interesting as it has grounds to veer further from the safe bet of confit duck with red cabbage. There’s salt-based swede with cashew butter, for instance, and burrata with chicory, walnuts and a blood orange dressing.

Address: 1-3 Banbury Rd, Oxford OX2 6NN

BOOK: oldparsonagehotel.co.uk

The Magdalen Arms

This pub was hyped around half a decade ago. And rightly so – the chef sourced food from patrons’ allotments. If you brought in a handful of carrots, the team would buy them off you, cook them, and serve them back. Or offset the cost when your bill arrived (which was large). Recently, the excitement started to fray, as it does, and at times the menu lacked focus. But it remains a solid place to dine, with an intriguing blend of European influences and solid flavours. Above all, the meat is always great quality, and cooked in crowd-pleasingly rustic fashion. The wine list too is admirable.

Address: 243 Iffley Rd, Oxford OX4 1SJ

BOOK: magdalenarms.co.uk

Brasserie Blanc

Led by Raymond Blanc, Brasserie Blanc first opened its doors in 1996. This restaurant is all about the French cuisine (‘honest food, cooked with the heart’ is his motto)  – and the best of it. Their menus are seasonal: currently you can tuck into the likes of beetroot tartare, braised asparagus, and smoked haddock with spring vegetables.

Address: 71-72 Walton St, Oxford OX2 6AG;

BOOK: brasserieblanc.com

The Rickety Press

Oxford’s food aficionados believe this used to be the best restaurant in the city. When the magnificent Charles Michel was still about town, he’d frequent the pub. So too did the Oxford Gastronomica lot, who know a thing or two about eating. When it launched, the Rickety Press was a low-key, food-focused restaurant with fine cooking and ideas you’d struggle to match unless you went out into the Cotswolds, or down to Henley. Now, it’s had a bit of a makeover and it seems to be more geared towards a crowd that wishes it were in London but still has a year at university to contend with. Pizza and burgers – but good ones.

Address: 67 Cranham St, Oxford OX2 6DE

BOOK: dodopubs.com

Cherwell Boathouse

Probably the most ‘Oxford’ restaurant ever conceived is the Cherwell Boathouse. It’s what it says it is, and you dine next to a particularly tranquil spot on the Thames, all ducks and sunshine. The regular menu is a bit fussy and can sometimes be a little too ‘parents taking you out for a nice meal but forgot to book somewhere properly amazing’ – but go for a tasting menu, where slow cooked pheasant egg is paired with things like a 2007 Meursault, and venison loin alongside a 2002 Volnay 1er Cru Santenots du Milieu.

Address: Bardwell Rd, Oxford OX2 6ST

BOOK: cherwellboathouse.co.uk

Kazbar

Kazbar on the Cowley Road fuses Moroccan and Spanish tapas. Think hummus and warm pitta, patatas bravas, rich octopus in tomato sauce, butter beans braised for just enough time to soften, but hold a little bite. The mojitos are better than most, the service friendly, and the décor is a sight to behold as you tuck into your third bowl of spicy meatballs.

Address: 25-27 Cowley Rd, Oxford OX4 1HP

BOOK: kazbar.co.uk

Quod Restaurant & Bar

Since opening in 1988, Quod Restaurant & Bar has become an Oxford institution, attracting everyone from students to young professionals to families. A smart bistro-style spot occupying the ground floor of a former bank, Quod is quite the crowd-pleaser, equally fitting for Sunday lunch with the family, cocktails with friends or a relaxed date night. The menu features pizzas, grills, meat and fish dishes, with afternoon tea available everyday and a stellar roast on Sundays, courtesy of chef Rohan Kashid and his talented team.

Address: 92-94 High St, Oxford OX1 4BJ

BOOK: quod.co.uk

The Grand Cafe

According to Samuel Pepys this was England’s first coffee house, dating all the way back to 1650. Despite being tiny it lives up to its grand title, with marble pillars and gold leaf frontage, serving high tea by day and cocktails by night. Their patisserie counter is irresistible.

Address: 84 High St, Oxford OX1 4BG

BOOK: thegrandcafe.co.uk

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