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But First…

It would be hugely amiss to fly all the way to Thailand without experiencing one of Asia’s megacities – the vibrant and hectic capital, Bangkok – before jetting off to calmer climes on one of its many islands. A quick stopover at the iconic Banyan Tree Bangkok, located in prime position in the Sathorn/Silom area, is an ideal way to shake off the jetlag and squeeze in some sightseeing.

First impressions are promising. Entering the expansive marble lobby, a woman kneels on a plinth, engrossed in her task of crafting traditional flower bracelets for new arrivals. Huge windows overlook a rocky koi pond, fringed with vegetation, a leafy respite from the concrete jungle outside.

The hotel’s rooms are spacious considering every square metre is prime real estate in this metropolis, with incredible views across the cityscape from the floor to ceiling windows. A plush sofa, cloud-like bed, and scented incense – which changes each day – create a relaxed vibe away from the hustle and bustle below. Although Bangkok beckons, there’s also plenty to pique your interest at the hotel.

Start off in the tranquillity of the spa to experience a famous Thai massage: all Banyan Tree’s therapists are trained at the brand’s dedicated school, so its wellness experiences are top notch. I opt for the Balinese massage, 60 minutes of pure bliss during which the masseuse applies deep palm and thumb pressure with rhythmic strokes. A visit to the outdoor pool on level 21 is a must to experience a swim and sunbathing in the sky while sipping on a cold cocktail to combat the city’s infamous humidity.

The hotel’s standout feature is the rooftop bar, aptly named Vertigo, which sits citadel-like up among the clouds on the 62nd floor. Guests and members of the public flock to experience its chic dining, chilled vibes, and the resplendence of the sunset over the sea of skyscrapers and the Chao Phraya river. This is a great people watching spot as the city’s young and beautiful queue to take snaps of their death-defying backbends over the building edge, enough to induce envy from any Instagram influencer.

Jet-lag tackled, it’s time for a change of scene…

Hotel Review: Garrya Tongsai Bay, Koh Samui, Thailand

STAY

Touching down in Koh Samui, a change of vibe takes you from city slicker to island girl in just one hour’s flight. The Garrya Tongsai Bay is the island’s first five-star property, but what it offers is so much more than mere luxury.

The resort’s founder, Akorn, discovered the beautiful Tongsai Bay back in the 1980s, immediately falling in love with the verdant hillside and turquoise waters of the bay. Over the next three months, he slept on the beach, dreaming big and fantasising about how he could realise his vision. Early sketches of the resort show villas dotted among the trees amid the natural surroundings of the bay, and that is exactly how you can still find it today.

Rather than nature being compromised to make space for the resort, Tongsai Bay has been designed to exist harmoniously alongside it. Winding stone paths snake gently through the thick foliage and up into the hills, connecting the villas artery-like to each other and the beach below.

The integration and blending of the villas into the undergrowth makes the resort feel like an undiscovered secret, and that’s certainly how many visitors seem to feel. A video plays on the in-room TV with gushing testimonials from loyal repeat guests, many of whom are now in double figures for their stay count.

Beachfront Suites

There’s even a villa which, until recently, was reserved for a couple who would stay at the resort for six months every year. Both have now passed away, but the staff still speak fondly of them – a testament to the special (and personal) relationships formed between staff and guests here.

In my Seaview Hillside Suite, a roomy bathroom, sunken lounge area, and outdoor patio with its own bath offer a home away from home bolthole. Although luxurious and comfortable, the villa I’m staying in has clearly been given a minimalist design to encourage guests to get out and about.

DO

Tongsai Bay’s ethos is based around protecting the natural environment, so it makes sense that the owners want guests to experience the great outdoors right on its doorstep. A brisk hike uphill along the resort’s nature trail is led by the in-house naturalist and culminates in a panoramic view of the entire bay, with all its resplendent colours on show in the sunlight.

Guests can also visit the nearby organic garden to see where much of the fresh produce that ends up on their plates is grown, and find out about how waste is recycled to make everything from toilet cleaner to bug spray. It’s the small touches that make all the difference here; for example, all drinks are served with straws made from lemongrass, something I’ve never seen elsewhere. 

Although Tongsai Bay does not offer any motorised water sports to protect the wildlife who call the bay home, paddleboarding, swimming and snorkelling are all encouraged. Anyone who loves to be out on the water can take a day or half-day boat trip, hopping around the numerous small islands and iconic limestone rocks that thrust majestically out of the emerald depths.

As darkness falls, travellers can head out to sample some of Koh Samui’s vibrant nightlife. The famous Coco Tam’s on Bophut Beach has a relaxed vibe by day but, every night at 9.30pm, the skies are set alight during its spectacular fire show.

As performers stage health and safety-defying feats, spinning, twirling and throwing burning batons, the pumping music reverberates in time. There are also brilliant pizzas plus a fabulous selection of cocktails, including an unsubtle CBD-inspired drink complete with marijuana leaf decoration on top. 

EAT

Thailand is renowned for its food scene. The waters around Koh Samui offer up a plethora of the freshest seafood, from oysters to lobster, mussels to king prawns. The resort also offers traditional eats, such as Miang Kham (a selection of herbs, spices and nuts wrapped in banana leaf), panang curry, and mango sticky rice.

Take a trip to the Fisherman’s Market after sundown to browse local crafts, jewellery, clothes and weird and wonderful food. A whole stall is dedicated to cooked bugs, from cricket skewers to crispy mealworms. Those who feel brave enough to sample these local snacks will gain some serious credit with onlookers. Or try Thai rolled ice cream, where ingredients like gummy bears, fruit and skittles are added to liquidised ice cream, before being carved into rolls on a frozen stainless steel – a delicious treat.

The Final Word

Although Thailand often gets an unfair reputation for being the land of backpackers, full moon parties and seedy bars, this is a destination that truly understands luxury. Nowhere is this reflected better than at Garrya Tongsai Bay, which blends its highly-personal five-star experience with an authentic respect for the natural world. This is the thought that will lull you to sleep, as you lie in bed in your villa at night, listening to the cicadas.

BOOK IT

A 10 night-stay at Garrya Tongsai bay is priced from £1,839pp including flights, a Sea view Hillside Suite with breakfast and private transfers (based on an April 2024 stay). Visit trailfinders.com or call 020 7368 1317 to save over £700 per couple.

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40 Of The Best Luxury Eco Staycations In The UK For 2023

start the slideshow

Featured Image: Moat Cottage at Wilderness Reserve, Suffolk

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What Is Midnight Trains?

French rail company Midnight Trains is aiming to launch a series of ‘hotels on wheels’ sleeper trains connecting Europe’s major cities, with the first route launching at the end of 2024 or early 2025. This first sleeper train service to launch with Midnight Trains is likely to be Paris – Milan – Venice. 

Will Midnight Trains Cover The UK?

Latest reports suggest that the French rail company has plans for a sleeper route between Edinburgh and Paris as part of its network, although the current rail infrastructure is unsuitable for the ‘hotel-style’ trains so it will be necessary to order a different specification of train to solve the problem. 

We spoke to Adrien Aumont and Romain Payet, co-founders of Midnight Trains, to get the low-down on the sleeper service plans, and when to expect them. 

Q&A with Adrien Aumont and Romain Payet of Midnight Trains

What will Midnight Trains offer passengers?

Adrien Aumont had the idea when he understood that people were willing to change their transport habits and shift to more sustainable alternatives. But they face a lack of rail offering on long distance (international) journeys not covered by high speed trains, and cannot wait for 2050 (or probably the end of the century) to have sustainable air transport at a fair price. 

Furthermore, transport operators (air or rail) have been focused on reducing prices for the last two decades, totally forgetting the customer experience and associated services. We think that travellers are now looking for a more comfortable and convenient way to travel.

With Midnight Trains, we want to create a new standard of sleeper trains. We believe that basic sleeper trains face three major issues: lack of privacy when you share a compartment with strangers, poor catering services while most travellers plan to have dinner onboard and few digital services to enhance the experience. With our ‘hotels on rails’ we want to solve these problems.

Will Midnight Trains be a premium travel option?

We do not want to create a luxury service, we just believe that if we want to convince travellers to stop flying we have to set up a new benchmark of night trains focusing on intimacy (only private accommodations, real bed sets, good soundproofing), conviviality (proper bar and restaurant offer as well as events and happenings) and a digital experience from end to end. We will target every type of customer with an inventory of rooms suitable for every budget, from individual capsules with no private shower and WC to suites with a double bed and private shower and WC.

How much will Midnight Trains cost?

We want to be competitive with prices offered by airline companies and their ‘hidden costs’ (taxis to and from the airport, nights of accommodation, extra for luggage, etc.) that you won’t have by choosing Midnight Trains.

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When will the first service launch?

We will launch our first line by the end of 2024 or 2025 with two sleeper trains (one departing from origin and one from destination, every night). The first line will most probably be Paris – Milan – Venice. Then we plan to open one new route per year from a hub in Paris to Barcelona, Florence and Rome, Nice and Madrid

What challenges have you faced?

Launching a railway company is not an easy task. We have been working hard for two years now to define the offer, the project roadmap and to gather the best specialists around the project. We faced (and are still facing) many obstacles, in a sector that is still on its way to open to private competition and to become fully European. When launching a train company, one has to be patient and resilient to cope with the incompressible long time to market. 

Images courtesy of Midnight Trains

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Human Rights & Social Travel Considerations

Sustainable tourism goes beyond the environment. To help you choose your next holiday destination, we’ve enlisted the help of Amy Welfare, one of the founders of The Conscious Travel Foundation, to answer our questions (and help you to come up with yours).

(c) Vanessa Garcia via Pexels.

What questions should you ask your hotel about environmental and energy practices?

‘It can be intimidating to ask questions of a hotel before you book – but transparency needs to become the norm if we’re to move forward as an industry! Start by requesting the hotel’s sustainability statement and asking what UN Sustainable Development goals the property aligns with. As well as considering the hotel, don’t forget its supply chain: this should be its own sustainable eco system. Ask about projects the hotel is involved with to help the local community with their environment and energy needs.’

What human rights and social considerations should travellers be aware of when picking their destination?

‘The first step is to think about which issues are particularly important to you, and then acknowledge if you feel uncomfortable supporting a country or company whose values differ from yours. From women’s rights and conditions of workers, to diversity and inclusivity policies, or fossil fuel versus renewable energy policies, there’s a lot to consider. My number one question is whether the state has compromised the living conditions of the population through financial and social policies.’

Which questions around human rights, social and political situations should travellers ask their travel company or hotel before booking?

‘Try to get to grips with how much money goes back into the local community, through employment and community projects. Look into the property’s diversity and inclusivity policy and what it’s doing to empower the local population. A good hotel will ensure that visitors have a positive impact rather than just consuming resources. As one of The Conscious Travel Foundation‘s panel of experts, Ang Tshering of Nepal’s Happy House, says, “travel should benefit the visitor and the visited”.’

How can travellers make more ethically sound and responsible travel choices?

‘Choosing who to travel with can be a minefield as some companies tout sustainable or ethical holidays without anything to back up their credentials. It’s one of the reasons that we set up the Conscious Travel Foundation. By booking through one of our members, it’s much easier to find a travel experience that’s ethically sound and has a positive impact.’

What is the impact of simply not travelling to places that don’t align with your social or political ideals?

‘Some people think their actions won’t make big differences in the grand scheme of things, but without action, there is no change. Asking questions creates a ripple effect and means that these kinds of conversations become more widespread. In addition, choosing a holiday that aligns with your values makes for a more enjoyable experience for everyone involved – and there are so many places to discover that are doing amazing things!’

Featured image: Dallas, TX, USA, photo by Lan Johnson on Unsplash

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Hotel Review: The Chedi El Gouna, Egypt

On a private stretch of sandy shoreline, 22 kilometres north of Hurghada, The Chedi is the latest sustainably minded resort to arrive in Egypt’s eco-town El Gouna, a zero-waste, self-sustaining community and the first African town to win a Green Town Award. 

Opening in October 2022, the hotel partnered with the Egyptian tourism board to represent the Green Star Hotel Initiative, and has turned heads towards this lesser-known Egyptian destination at an exciting time for the nation. Celebrations this year in Egypt – influenced by its location sandwiched between Africa and Arabia – include: 200 years of the deciphering of the Rosetta Stone, the anticipated opening of the Grand Archaeological Museum in Cairo, and a century since the discovery of King Tutankhamun in the Valley of the Kings.

Working with the local neighbourhood, The Chedi El Gouna minimises its ecological footprint with low-energy building standards, energy-saving technologies, and by recycling 100 percent of its water.

STAY

Blending into the arid landscape, 82 rooms and suites have been crafted in keeping with The Chedi’s understated aesthetic. Each follows a tranquil design concept, from the widespread Junior Garden and Sea View Suites, finished in marble and bespoke natural furniture, to the smaller Beach Front Rooms with the warm sea air.

Spa Suite

Towards the rear of the hotel (ideal for guests seeking a higher level of privacy, away from the hub of the hotel), the low rise Garden Suites are wrapped in bougainvillaea and elegantly frame the Red Sea on the horizon.

Honouring the region’s landscape, The Chedi’s neutral design palette reigned over our Sea View room, with warm wood furnishings, crisp white bedsheets, and its central bathroom finished in smooth grey marble and spacious double rain shower. Sliding doors open onto a small but comfortable terrace peering over the cobalt ocean strewn with kite surfers, and The Chedi’s private beach peppered with terracotta-coloured parasols. 

Superior Sea View Room

DO

Escape the heat with a dip in the pool – from the main pool among billowing cabanas, to the central shallower pool – or a trip to the spa. With four single suites, two couple suites and two hammams, Asian influences, focussing on balancing the mind, body and spirit, create a blissful afternoon. Choose from hammam rituals, detoxifying skin treatments and therapies led by an excellent team providing an authentic experience aligned with The Chedi’s concept. 

Next door, an impressive gym is home to Technogym treadmills overlooking the pool and ocean, alongside weights, rowing machines, leg curl and chest press machines and spinning bikes, as well as a section for yogis with lighter weights and mats.

A water sports haven, kitesurfing aficionados flock to El Gouna’s coastline, and The Chedi’s concierge can arrange sailing and jet skiing for guests. Beneath the Red Sea’s surface, fishing, snorkelling, and diving await, including nine PADI certified dive centres with access to the best sites. For a more relaxed watery experience, enjoy a leisurely lagoon boat trip touring the myriad of canals lined by private waterfront villas, hotels, and elegant marinas.

El Gouna Mountain Goats Hiking Corridor

For a touch of Tulum, jump into one of the local tuk-tuks and head to the Casa Cook beach club on the other side of El Gouna. A laidback luxury hotel with a chic beach club, hammocks sway in the salty breeze while cool kite surfers dine on bowls of refreshing gazpacho, fruity cocktails, and fresh salads to a soundtrack of relaxed summer tunes.

The beaches and water sports perhaps shadow the hushed beauty of the desert that surrounds the community. To discover what lies inland, jump into a Jeep for an afternoon adventure with Mountain Goat excursions. On a driving tour and hike into the Egyptian desert, we navigated an ancient dried-up riverbed filled with fossils and watched the tangerine sun drop below the horizon before bright stars lit up the inky African sky.

EAT

The Chedi El Gouna’s main restaurant is set with natural stone flooring, teak wood, and local marble. Central to the swimming pools, find a buffet of international dishes led by local techniques and ingredients, including Arabic mezze enjoyed daily. Tucked behind the cabanas with a breezy Saint Tropez style setting is The Beach House, a place for lazy lunches and oceanfront dinners. The Mediterranean menu of fish and meats includes tacos, artisan pasta and ciabatta sandwiches, best enjoyed with a crisp glass of rosé and jugs of sangria.

Nihon

It’s upstairs, however, that The Chedi’s Asian culinary character flourishes. Here, fine-dining Japanese restaurant Nihon is set beneath the stars, with darker undertones wrapping around a central bar and open kitchen, lit dramatically by flaming heaters. Start with an excellent spicy chicken salad, fragrant Tom Yum soup, or fruity ‘dynamite’ prawns. The sushi, however, steals the show; try dragon, California, or spicy tuna rolls, and nigiri and sashimi can be selected, from tuna to salmon, sea bass to eel. There’s also a selection of pan-Asian dishes, from the familiar Thai green curry to miso salmon. The matcha panna cotta dessert is a must, topped with mango and chia seeds. 

THE FINAL WORD

In the sustainable eco-oasis of El Gouna (a modern-day town conceived only 30 years ago), The Chedi El Gouna draws Egypt into a new era of luxury travel on the Red Sea, embracing Egyptian culture while showcasing the brand’s signature intuitive luxury and timeless design. 

BOOK IT: Rooms at The Chedi El Gouna start from £173 per night. chedielgouna.com

Featured image: El Gouna Red Sea Labranda Club Paradisio.

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Exploring Argentina on horseback with Pura Aventura, the UK’s first travel B Corp company

Sustainable Tourism As A Force For Good

‘I’m not a fan of the term “sustainable travel”,’ says Tom Power, co-founder and CEO of Pura Aventura, the UK’s first travel B Corp business. ‘Sustainability suggests stabilising rather than improving. I prefer “regenerative or transformative travel”. Better travel is where travel stops being a commodity and becomes an exchange of values.’

True sustainable tourism is about far more than just ditching single-use plastic – it has to go further. Further than carbon offsetting, further than using renewable energy, further than biocomposting (these steps are the bare minimum). It comes down to making a positive impact and shifting the focus away from what we as individuals can get out of a trip, to what we can add through our visit. When we take responsibility for our travel choices, we become part of a global repositioning towards positive tourism.

Meeting Sri Lankan locals with Ayu in the Wild

Proof Ecotourism Works

‘There are literally hundreds of case studies that demonstrate how sustainable tourism done right delivers a positive impact,’ says conservationist Costas Christ, one of the industry’s leading experts in sustainability and founder of Beyond Green. Take Costa Rica, for example, which had one of the highest rates of deforestation between the 1940s to 1970s, as land was cleared to allow increased planting of high- value crops. Aware of its impending environmental destruction, in 1970 the government set up the National Park Service and around a quarter of the country gained protective status of some kind. An economic shift from crop exports to ecotourism hugely reduced the cutting down of trees.

To put this in context, deforestation is currently estimated to account for upwards of 15 per cent of carbon emissions globally, while the aviation industry accounts for approximately two to three per cent. And if you wiped out tourism altogether in the name of conservation, the alternatives would almost certainly be worse. According to a 2020 report on the state of the wildlife economy in Africa, Kenya has lost $750 million and 1.3 million tourism jobs since the pandemic, with communities dependent on tourism financially decimated; the killing of bushmeat for survival has also become commonplace once more.

‘If people stopped flying to the Serengeti tomorrow to see the last great land migration of wildlife on earth, I believe that in less than ten years it would be turned into cattle ranches.’

Wildlife spotting at Xigera Safari Lodge

‘Half our Beyond Green members are on the African continent and are collectively protecting over ten million acres of endangered species’ habitat, regenerating landscapes, protecting endangered species and uplifting local communities,’ Costas tells me. ‘If people stopped flying to the Serengeti tomorrow to see the last great land migration of wildlife on earth, I believe that in less than ten years it would be turned into cattle ranches. The only thing standing between turning the Serengeti or the Brazilian Pantanal [the world’s largest wetland], into another example of the global beef industry is sustainable tourism.’

But does this mean the aviation industry gets a free pass? While efforts are underway to make flying greener, we’re a long way off from guilt- free air travel. Carbon offsetting is just a nod to recognising the issue and more pressure needs to be put on airlines to make it their problem. ‘They need to be more aggressive and invest more in reducing their carbon footprint,’ agrees Costas. Until zero-carbon flying exists we must consider the ramifications of air travel, the key message being to go to fewer places, for longer.

Mokoro canoes paddle the Okavango Delta

Shop Small, Spend Locally

Henry Comyn, of luxury travel company Joro Experiences and co-founder of not-for-profit organisation The Conscious Travel Foundation, says: ‘Travellers need to be aware that every decision they make leaves an impact – from the countries they visit to the mode of transport they use to get there. The biggest changes can come from cutting unnecessary flights, staying in locally-owned accommodation, and using local guides, [thereby] putting money back into the community. Travellers need to ensure that their spend in the country goes into employing locals and, hopefully, into conservation and community initiatives to protect their environment.’

Individual responsibility is a great start, of course, but international regulation is key to lasting change. ‘Globally, sustainable tourism has been defined [and] we have the United Nations sustainable development goals that are now linked to sustainable tourism,’ explains Costas.

‘At Beyond Green, we are trying to show that way forward so people have an opportunity to exercise their choice, and say, “Yes, I’ve worked very hard, I want that holiday on a Greek island, but I also want to do it in a way that is good for local people – and so that my children and future generations can have the kind of experiences that are so meaningful to me when I travel”.’

As travellers then, the power lies with us. When booking your next holiday, don’t ask ‘what’s in it for me?’, ask ‘what’s in it for us?’ – both the destination and community we’re visiting. If we take, we must give back, or the planet is left out of balance. So don’t stop flying to save the planet – but do stop flying thoughtlessly.

Main image: Pexels

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What Is Sustainable Tourism?

Going green has never been more important. The current environmental crisis requires action and consideration in all areas of life but travel, by its nature, has the power to be a catalyst for positive change. Like so many other industries, tourism in its current form has become unsustainable; the very ecosystems, climates, and communities that we value enough to visit are being put at risk. Making travel sustainable means adapting practices and shifting toward protection, conservation, and positive community action.

At its core, sustainable tourism is about shifting our perception of travel and the purpose of our trips. It should not be about extraction, but a mutual exchange: what are you getting out of your trip, and what are you giving back? This could range from supporting the local community by getting out and investing in local businesses, taking positive action to conserve the environment you’re visiting, or booking with travel companies who have taken on that social and environmental responsibility for you and are operating under the highest principles of responsible tourism.

Costas Christ, founder of Beyond Green, told us: ‘There are three pillars of sustainable tourism:

1. ‘Environmentally friendly practices – this is the Reduce, Reuse recycle part of it.
2. ‘Support for the protection of cultural and natural heritage, endangered species, biodiversity, natural landscapes and so on. Living cultural heritage could be contemporary music, dance, art, even fashion. And what we call historic cultural heritage: historical monuments, archaeological sites, and so on.
3. ‘And then the third pillar is the social and economic wellbeing of local people.

‘When you bring those three together, travel transforms into a very powerful force that can alleviate poverty, that can protect some of the world’s rarest and most iconic sacred sites and archaeological wonders, can put vast areas under protection and habitat restoration and reduce its carbon footprint,’ says Costas.

Beyond Sustainability

Something that leaders in this field are urging us to think about is whether making the current model of tourism more sustainable is enough, or whether the industry and we as travellers should be going further. ‘I’m not a fan of the term “sustainable travel”‘, says Tom Power, MD of Pura Aventura, the UK’s first travel B Corp business. ‘Sustainability suggests stabilising rather than improving. I prefer regenerative travel or transformative travel.

‘Positive travel is a broader term,’ Tom adds. ‘It can sound worthy, but it’s win-win when it’s done right. Better travel is where travel stops being a commodity and becomes an exchange of values.’

So, the first step in achieving true sustainable tourism starts with us, the consumer. We hold the power. Tom says: ‘Conscious travellers make for better travel – it is as simple as that. The more awake we are when we’re travelling, the better.’

Beyond sustainable travel, comes ecotourism: travel that goes beyond responsible tourism and actively aims to do good.

Ready to take your first step to be a more conscious traveller? Check out our guide to responsible tourism, and follow our green travel series, as we tell you how:

• How to avoid greenwashing when travelling
• Can tourism be a force for positive environmental change?
• What is carbon offsetting, and does it work?
• Are there human rights issues with your holiday destination?
• Does carbon offsetting actually work?
• Sustainable travel certifications and badges to know

Photo by Katerina Kerdi 

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Sustainable Travel Certifications And Badges: Where To Start

What are the main sustainability certifications or awards that hotels and travel companies can achieve?

‘There are over 200 awards, certifications and ‘stamps of approval’ across the world that businesses use to flag that they are sustainable. These are supposed to help conscious consumers to choose which services or products they can invest in to align with their own ethics, but not all are made equal. Some require evidence to back up claims being made (such as certificates to prove carbon neutrality and details of exactly how emissions have been offset). Others need no evidence at all.’

How are they generally awarded or judged?

‘The number of ‘sustainability stamps’ can be overwhelming. Each country has its own certifications, and even within one country there might be different accrediting bodies for hotels, destinations, and tour operators – but there are a few logos or names that you might see regularly, including Green Key, Earth Check and Green Growth. To help you know whether this stamp means something or is just greenwashing, you can check whether they are certified by the Global Sustainable Tourism Council (GSTC) which sets the global standard for these accreditations.’

GSTC

Travel companies that have been certified by a GSTC-Accredited Certification Body have been verified by an independent and neutral process. These certification bodies will display the GSTC logo alongside their own.

Are some certifications better than others?

‘After considering the options, Joro opted for B Corp certification because it requires an in-depth examination of a business’s processes and sustainability efforts. Covering the full scope of products and services – including travel businesses – each company that applies for B Corp status is measured using the same metrics and is provided with a score out of 200.

‘To get B Corp certification, you need a score of 80+ and to make a commitment “to positively impact all stakeholders – workers, communities, customers, and our planet”. Joro achieved B Corp status in early 2021, and we were the first luxury travel brand in the UK to do so.

‘There’s a lengthy process to obtain the initial certification, but there are also ongoing checks to keep us accountable and ensure our actions match up with our promises. We’re required to submit details of our carbon offsetting and removal projects and create an impact report each year, among other things. You can find the UK’s B Corp accredited travel businesses on the Travel by B Corp website.’

With so much noise around sustainability and ecotourism, how can travellers be sure they’re making the right choices?

‘The best way is to engage and ask questions. Any company who sees sustainability as a box ticking exercise has missed the big picture, but a company with sustainability at its heart will be able to clearly answer your questions – including not just what they’ve already done but what they plan on doing to improve. An insider trick is to ask people to explain why their business is sustainable without using the word ‘sustainable’.’

‘The right choice for a customer is going on a better holiday than they did the last year. You do this by finding trips that not only benefit you but also the places you visit. Could you stand on stage and explain in what ways you feel you picked a great holiday?’

Anything else our readers should know about sustainability credentials and badges?

‘While some brands are intentionally greenwashing, others are trying their best but missing the mark. It’s a complex area, and it can be overwhelming knowing where to start. This is where organisations such as The Conscious Travel Foundation come in. Co-founded by Joro in 2020, it’s a community of like-minded travel businesses and individuals supporting each other and working together to make travel a force for good. There are experts across different fields to help on the members’ varying sustainability journeys – whether that’s by advising on the latest science and the best ways to reduce carbon, or on how to ensure your company’s culture takes into account diversity and inclusion for example.’

Featured image: Hạ Long, Vietnam, photo by Ammie Ngo on Unsplash

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Rebecca Cox visits Beyond Green member hotel Bushmans Kloof, to find out how the protection of this ancient art work fits into the wider conservation efforts taking place on the Western Cape.

Bushmans Kloof Review

The drive to Bushmans Kloof sets the tone for what’s on offer at this luxury South African lodge. Roughly three and a half hours north of Cape Town, the entrance to the hotel grounds is some 30 minutes drive down craggy, bumpy roads to the lodges and rooms. Your vehicle will need to slow significantly to navigate the bumps and rocks, pause for animal crossings and keep your bearings, offering you the chance to slow down and adjust to life at a new (and improved) pace. Unlike the safari lodges further north and east of South Africa, or the East Africa route where big five viewings are the name of the game and days start in the early hours to catch maximum action in the bush, things are a little more easy going at Bushmans Kloof. 

Having said that, there are animals, of course. Baboons, so numerous that the rooms all come with a warning to lock the doors to avoid unwelcome visits, a variety of antelope, including the herd of red hartebeest that gallop through the resort as we’re returning to our room after supper, startled, perhaps by the aforementioned baboons. There are an array of pretty and vocal birds, including an abundance of the flightless ostrich, who make for hours of entertainment with their bickering and feather flapping.

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And then, of course, there is the cape leopard. One of the property’s conservation commitments is to the Cape Leopard Protection Programme, within which they work with surrounding farmers to stop the culling of the area’s main predator. The project involves providing farmers with Anatolian sheep dogs to guard their livestock to prevent poaching by the leopards, meaning they no longer have to hunt them to prevent the loss of their animals. It is thought that there are roughly seven or eight leopards on Bushmans Kloof’s rocky hills at any given time, although sightings are incredibly rare. Londi, our guide, has seen only three in 11 years, the general manager none. Unlike other lodges that offer night drives and the like, the animals are very much left to their own devices here. Even the wildebeest and zebra are skittish, and nature drives are more about taking in the scenery and learning about the history of the lands than the arbitrary ticking off of animals. And while it would be undeniably incredible to meet a leopard in these wild and colourful hills, just knowing that you’re sharing their land for a few nights is pretty wonderful.

STAY

The accommodation at Bushmans Kloof varies from grand double bathroom-ed master suites with luxurious finishes, rich and varied artworks and modern free-standing baths, to more modest (and ever so slightly dated) manor house rooms, several of which accommodate families. All rooms are generously sized, including the most petite waterside lodges, and all feature large and outrageously comfortable beds. The fully stocked cookie and snack jars will stave off hunger, although with the food on offer at Bushmans Kloof you’d do well to achieve a state of hunger at any point during your stay.

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EAT

Dining options range from leisurely luxury at Makana and the Homestead to spectacular location dining at Kadoro or Embers. The breakfast at Makana is an indulgent affair, with a buffet stocked with fresh fruits, vegetables, cheeses, pastries and a granola station, plus a menu that offers hearty daily specials and favourites like avocado toast. All of it pales in comparison to Mrs T’s mac & cheese, layered with tomatoes and with a crumb topping; this is without question the most enjoyable way to start any day.

Special occasion dining at Bushmans Kloof is where this property really excels. Perfect picnics by the lake include mini mushroom balls, hake wraps, cheese boards you’ll dream of for weeks later served alongside individual dessert platters, plus a South African Sauvignon Blanc or a Cederberg sparkling to wash it all down. The Kadoro is a secluded farm building at the top of the property, where food is cooked over a roaring fire and the grand dining room is lit only by candlelight from dozens, if not hundreds, of candles. If a more romantic dining room exists, we’ve not come across it, and for those looking for the perfect setting for an intimate wedding supper, there is no more special place. The drive back to the main lodge under the light of a thousand sparkling stars is pretty lovely, too.

DO

The rock art sites on the property are a real draw, no pun intended, and witnessing the painted recordings of visions and stories from millenia ago is a truly moving experience. You’re free to explore the property alone with walking and running routes marked to enjoy, and will stumble across rock art sites on these explorations, but the best way to experience them is with the guidance of one of the BK guides such as Londi, whose knowledge of the culture and history of the people to have created the artwork is incredible. Londi is a rock art site curator and has been at Bushmans Kloof for 11 years across two spells, first starting in 2005. He is originally from the Eastern Cape and grew up speaking Xhosa and seeing the culture and rituals depicted in the artwork first hand, which sparked his passion in conservation and education. The paintings are layered on top of each other, over centuries and millennia, depicting the visions of the shaman and medicine men, painted by the elder members of communities. Rock art sites are not all in protected landscapes like the one at Bushmans Kloof, although the art itself is protected and belongs to the African people. Sadly the art in unprotected landscapes is often defaced or graffitied, making spaces like this all the more important.

Beyond the rock art, the best way to explore this stunning landscape is to immerse yourself in it. Nature drives, walks, runs, wild swimming, mountain biking or canoeing are just some of the ways to cover the hills and trails of the Kloof, all offering different perspectives and different opportunities to spot new flora and fauna on the grounds. As night falls, look up, because the clear skies over the Kloof make for breath-taking stargazing and yet more opportunities to feel small, atop our diverse earth, circling the sun amongst our endless universe of stars.

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SUSTAINABILITY & CONSERVATION

Bushman tribes have lived in the antediluvian mountains for 120,000 years, they are mankind’s oldest nation, and the team at Bushmans Kloof takes protection of these lands very seriously. Bushmans Kloof is the custodian of over 130 unique rock art sites, some as old as 10,000 years. They have been awarded the status of a Grade 1 South African National Heritage Site, and take conservation seriously. Along with The Tread Right Foundation, Cheetah Outreach and The Cape Leopard Trust, they have purchased seven Anatolian Shepherd dogs to act as livestock guardian dogs (LGDs) and safeguard these Cape Leopards from poaching. They also partner with a number of local projects, including local farming communities, the Amy Biel Foundation and Elizabeth Fontein Primary School. By visiting Bushmans Kloof you are funding the continued protection of these lands via sustainable tourism. 

Costas Christ (co-founder of Beyond Green) says: ‘By booking a holiday with Beyond Green, a traveller is supporting a global collective sustainable tourism impact that is uplifting local community livelihoods in the places they visit, restoring ecosystems on land and sea, saving endangered species and protecting cultural heritage for future generations.’ 

THE FINAL WORD

Fluffy baby ostriches chasing their parents, a dazzle of zebra with their brown and fuzzy young, baby baboons pushing each other into the rock pools. Yes, where there is South African wildlife, there is joy to behold, but the appeal of Bushmans Kloof runs deeper than the thriving wildlife population and into the history of these precious lands, and the efforts to keep them alive.

BOOK

Rates at Bushmans Kloof, a member of Beyond Green, start from £500. For further information or to book, visit staybeyondgreen.com Rates start from £500 (10,405 RAN) per night per room based on two people sharing, inclusive of all F&B and activities.

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Discovering The Green Side Of The Seychelles

Anse Du Riz (Image courtesy of Paul Turcotte – Tourism Seychelles)

Any mental image of the Seychelles tends to evoke a ‘wish you were here’ confection of talcum powder-white sand lapped by Bombay Sapphire waters and shaded by graceful palms. It conveys lush rainforests tumbling down granite cliffs, clear skies studded by a zillion stars, petal-strewn beds, and swoons of the most breathless kind: in short, romance on ‘roids.

Yet, as alluring as it is, this postcard picture image only scratches the surface of what this group of 115 islands, located just above Madagascar in the Indian Ocean, has to offer. Not only are they an ideal – and idyllic – holiday destination for families and friends, as well as for honeymooners, the Seychelles are also astonishingly rich in wonders rarely seen elsewhere. With nearly 50 percent of the islands’ total land mass protected by nature reserves, there’s much more to the Seychelles than curated romance.

The islands’ very geology, evident as soon as you land at Mahé International Airport, is astonishing: we’re confronted by sheer granite faces, swathed with greenery and shrouded, at the top, by the mists of a recent downpour; the kind that breaks the humid stillness and leaves the air fresh and the foliage damp.

Kayaking at Anse Source d’ Argent (Image courtesy of Michel Denousse – Tourism Seychelles)

In this section of the Indian Ocean, islands tend to be volcanic in nature; the Seychelles, however, have the distinction of being the only oceanic islands in the world formed of granite, thrusting skywards from the ancient supercontinent of Gondwana, which existed over 200 million years ago. Their jagged beauty is the stuff of social media posts, of course – Anse Source d’Argent beach, on the largely pedestrianised island of La Digue, is said to be one of the most photographed beaches in the world, thanks, in part, to its use in various advertisements and films (including Tom Hanks’ 2000 film Castaway). 

Some of the enormous granite formations appear to be precariously balanced, like giant boulders on the Atlas-like shoulders of others. Elsewhere, sculptural masses of curves and folds appear almost delicate, despite their petrous nature. Reef activity swarms within a short distance from the sand, and glass-bottomed kayaks can be acquired from Robert Agnes’ Sunny Trail Guides, the outfit’s low-key beachshack appearance belying the wonders their rental equipment gives access to.

On a snorkelling boat trip from Praslin – itself accessed via a short internal, and somewhat archaic, flight from Mahé – we lingered by striking formations, rising from the waters like serpentine Loch monsters. We admire the pure lushness of the carelessly spectacular greenery, effusing from every orifice; it’s just as compelling as the rippling clouds of colour and activity we witness beneath the water, darting among savagely beautiful structures of bleached coral.

Coco de mer in the Vallee De Mai Forest, Praslin (Image courtesy of Paul Turcotte – Tourism Seychelles)

If there’s a certain fecund sexiness to our surroundings, it’s probably heightened by the fact that Praslin (and the nearby island of Curieuse) is the only place in the world where you can find the highly prized and fiercely protected Coco de mer trees. We embark on a guided tour of the 19.5ha Vallee de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage site also known as the Garden of Eden, where the moniker is easily understood as you walk, awestruck, through its primaeval magnificence, learning more about the history and significance of this native palm and its seeds. 

Our driver had already commented on the distinctive maleness and femaleness of the fruits of the trees and, as we soon discover on our walk with a fiercely knowledgeable ranger, the differences between the two are almost laughably vulgar, with the female seed representing a rather enviably shapely bottom, while the male, a large catkin, is impressively phallic. So precious – and frequently endangered – is the flora here that visits are limited to a single hour.

Vallee De Mai (Image courtesy of Torsten Dickmann – Tourism Seychelles)

Inevitably, a product so rare and so evocatively shaped has given rise to a number of myths and legends – those concerning aphrodisiacal properties, of course, among them. The fact that the seeds were often found washed up on far distant shores even led people to believe that they were the products of forests of underwater palm trees.

There are only around 8000 mature coco de mer trees in existence today, and the plant is listed as endangered on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) red list. The government takes vigorous measures to protect them, claiming ownership of all of them, even if they grow on private property, and rigidly enforcing sanctions against those illegally harvesting nuts. 

Since they live between 200 and 400 years and can take up to 50 years to reach sexual maturity, naturalists have plenty of time – or not enough time – to observe their development. Such a slow growth rate, additionally, contributes to the palm’s endangered status. Huge fines and even sentences befall those who try to smuggle them out of the country: those wanting their own coco de mer nut (the flesh is removed before sale and sold to the Chinese market as an aphrodisiac) to take home must buy through a licensed seller, where they are allocated a numbered certificate of provenance and an export licence – and heft out a sum in the region of £250. 

As of 2020, further initiatives have been launched that involve giving residents the opportunity to make an application to plant as many as five coco de mer seeds within their own properties – thus not only boosting the palm’s population but giving the Seychellois a sense of ownership about their country’s rarest and most precious commodity. Rigorous checks are undertaken of the applicants’ properties to ensure that conditions are suitable for the palm to flourish – even though, due to their exceptionally long growth cycle, most of the applicants won’t get to admire their coco de mer palms in their own lifetimes.

Victoria Botanical Gardens (Image courtesy of Michel Denousse – Tourism Seychelles)

As fascinating as these endangered ‘love nuts’ are, they’re not a patch – where adorableness is concerned, at least – on the giant tortoises, who drool in the most fetching way when presented with leafy treats. We encountered these on Curieuse and La Digue and, with their huge, domed backs, these lumbering creatures can weigh up to nearly 800 lbs and live to be centenarians. Thought to have been driven to extinction over 100 years ago, the Nature Protection Trust of Seychelles led a successful conservation programme, including captive breeding programmes and reintroductions. A recent census showed that the population of these characterful reptiles has now exceeded 4000, with captivity used for protective and breeding purposes; however you encounter them, they’re both an oddity and a delight. 

With its paradisal setting so much a part of what the Seychelles have to offer, it’s little wonder that concerted efforts of preservation and conservation are such considerations in this group of islands. As well as the efforts around the tortoise population, there are also the thousands of coral fragments which were, in 2022, outplanted in four underwater nurseries in a Marine Protected Area. Given the fragility of the fragments, this is an activity that takes both time and delicate yet concerted effort. Yet, at this time, more than 30,000 corals have already been outplanted. The next phase of the project – funded by the Adaptation Fund through the United Nations Development Project and the Seychellois Government – involves the establishment of a land-based nursery which is expected to generate coral fragments at a speedier rate than can be achieved in underwater nurseries.

Baie La Raie Beach, Curieuse Island (Image courtesy of Paul Turcotte – Tourism Seychelles)

Efforts are also underway to preserve a number of birds endemic to the Seychelles; elusive as these are, some can still be seen in the Vallee de Mai, so keep your eyes peeled for Black Parrots, Blue Pigeons, Bulbuls and Warblers. The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB) started work in the Seychelles almost 30 years ago to prevent the eradication (largely due to the introduction of predators and invasive plants) of endangered birds. Their success, with one species, the Red Fody, in particular, is plain to see – leave a few crumbs of your morning croissant lingering on your plate at breakfast and the brightly-hued, minuscule birds (they measure little more than 10cm) will hang about, politely but eagerly, waiting to see if you vacate your table with any leftovers that they can put their tiny beaks to use on.

The relationship between tourism and conservation has long been a thorny issue but, as well as there being opportunities to personally participate in conservation projects in the Seychelles (see, for example, gvi.co.uk), there is also the option to tour with operations whose sustainability credentials stand out. One such is White Sands Adventures, located on Mahé, where a combination of hiking, cycling, four-wheel driving and kayaking takes you to lesser-accessed regions of the main island in the company of a guide who is not only knowledgeable about the country and its exceptional environment, but also passionate about its preservation. A former athlete, he’s found ways around the limitations on exploration of the islands’ secret corners to make the natural gloriousness of the Seychelles – something even more ravishing, in its postcard-shy secretiveness, than the ubiquitous white sands, sculptural boulders and turquoise waters – accessible to explorers without compromising the continuing beauty of the landscape.

Beau Vallon Beach (Image courtesy of Ennio Maffei – Tourism Seychelles)

Back at our hotel, the exquisite Story in Mahe’s Beau Vallon, you’d be forgiven for supposing that such lushness – groomed grounds, one hundred rooms and suites, opulent architecture that blends colonial and Creole, a dreamy spa, a variety of communal and private pools, plus no fewer than seven dining areas – has cocked a thumb at eco concerns, but the opposite couldn’t be more true. Not only did the resort win ‘Seychelles Leading Green Resort’ for the fourth year running in 2021, but the devil is in the details: the resort has its own water bottling plant; the employment of single-use plastic is minimal (and increasingly limited); and guests are invited to participate in beach clean ups, which take place around five times each month. And, on a more indulgent level, there’s a certain pleasure that comes from accompanying spectacular sunset-watching with a cocktail made from Takamaka Rum, produced right there on Mahe and infused with locally-grown spices. Come to the Seychelles for romance, by all means – there’s an awful lot to fall in love with.

Sarah Rodrigues was a guest of the Seychelles Tourism Board.

How To Get To The Seychelles

Several airlines fly to the Seychelles from the UK via Europe or the Middle East, with an average flight time of 13–14 hours.

Featured image courtesy of Danio Denousse – Tourism Seychelles.

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