A Foodie’s Guide To Sicily

Vittorio Meli

Born in Catania, Sicily, Vittorio’s family have owned and run restaurants for over three generations – so the chef certainly knows his stuff when it comes to good food. He is now at the helm of Zoom East, a Sicilian restaurant in London which features traditional dishes like caponata, arancini and Stocco Alla Messinese, a fish stew with olives, potatoes and capers. 

Vittorio Meli’s Pick: Best Restaurants in and Near Sicily

Pasticceria Savia, Catania

In Catania you must visit a ‘Tavola Calda Catanese’ (a Catanian ‘hot table’). These are casual restaurants or takeaways serving specialities including pizzette cartocciate and cipolline, savoury Sicilian pastries, and of course arancini. You can find Tavola Calda Catanese everywhere in the city but I especially recommend the traditional Pasticceria Savia, set at the corner between Via Etnea and Via Umberto. 

Via Etnea, 300/302/304, Via Umberto I, 2/4/6, 95131 Catania CT, Italy, lnx.savia.it

Zoom East

Trattoria Don Nino, Messina 

In the North of Sicily, at one of the three extreme points of the island is the city of Messina. Stocco alla Messines (stockfish) is the most important delicacy in the city – a real tradition that has historical roots linked to the geographically favourable position of the city on the Strait and its port in the Mediterranean Sea. Trattoria Don Nino is a great place to experience a classic Messina stockfish. 

V.le Europa, 39, 98124 Messina ME, Italy, facebook.com

Il Carretto, Cefalu 

Cefalu is one of the most beautiful villages in Italy. In the historic centre a few steps from the Cathedral Basilica you will find Il Carretto offering typical Sicilian dishes with local products from fish to meat, both served directly at the table on lava stone. In Cefalu you will also often find slow-cooked black pig sandwiches served as street food. The Black Pig of the Nebrodi Mountains near Cefalu is a native breed with ancient origins. 

Via Mandralisca, 66, 90015 Cefalù PA, Italy, facebook.com

Market A’ Vucciria, Palermo

In Palermo you must visit the market ‘A’ Vucciria’, an ancient bazaar with shops and food stalls – it can be hectic, but that is part of the charm. It is a great experience and the perfect place to try an array of different dishes as well as buy fresh ingredients. There you will find food stalls serving traditional dishes such as pane e panelle – chickpea fritters inside crunchy bread with lemon and parsley; Meusa (slow-cooked spleen with sweet and sour sauce) swordfish roll, boiled octopus, and cardoons in batter.

Piazza Caracciolo, 90133 Palermo PA, Italy

Osteria Mamma Carmela, Palermo

For a quieter option I would suggest Palermo institution Osteria Mamma Carmela in Borgo Vecchio via Principe di Scordia, just a few steps away from the famous theatre Politeama. Here you will find authentic, rustic cuisine not known to many. 

Via Principe Scordia, 159, 90139 Palermo PA, Italy

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Trattoria Al Brigantino, Sferracavallo

Sferracavallo is a subarea very close to Palermo. It is famous throughout Sicily as a haven for seafood lovers. The Restaurant Trattoria Al Brigantino is one of the best known in Sferracavallo and offers customers typical dishes of Sicilian cuisine based on fresh fish.

Via Torretta, 104, 90147 Palermo PA, Italy

Restaurant Alla Kasbah, Mazara del Vallo 

Caponata is one of the most famous dishes in Sicily and something that you absolutely must try – Restaurant Alla Kasbah in the town of Mazara del Vallo is the perfect place. There is not actually a defined recipe, because each city or village has his own – and indeed each family in Sicily has his own recipe. Here you must also try the Gambero Rosso of Mazara – red prawns that the port town is known for. 

Via Itria, 10, 91026 Mazara del Vallo TP, Italy

Tha’am Restaurant, San Vito Lo Capo

Visit Tha’am restaurant, one of the most well-known restaurants in San Vito Lo Capo, to try classic Sicilian fish couscous dishes. A dish of North African origin, in Sicily couscous is cooked with fish or shellfish, and rich fish stock. 

Via Duca degli Abruzzi, 32, 91010 San Vito Lo Capo TP, Italy, thaam.it

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Panificio Giummarra, Ragusa

The Scacce Ragusane are a rustic and tasty dish of thin pastry with different savoury fillings, widespread in Ragusa and its province. It is difficult to find a bakery that competes with homemade scacce but in the heart of Ragusa there is the Giummarra bakery that perfectly replaces the home oven. 

Via Traspontino, 23, 97100 Ragusa RG, Italy

Pasticceria Artale, Ortigia, Syracuse 

If you’re visiting Ortigia, the historical centre of Syracuse located on Sicily’s south-eastern coast, I highly recommend Pasticceria Artale, an artisan bakery close to the Cathedral of Syracuse, for their sweet pastries. They also have a great lunch and dinner menu. 

Via Saverio Landolina, 32, 96100 Siracusa SR, Italy, pasticceriaartale.it

Bar Girlando, Avola

Not far from the famous Syracuse on Sicily’s south-eastern coast is the coastal city of Avola where you will find Bar Girlando. Make a stop here to taste the fabulous ‘Granita di mandorle’ almond granita alongside the typical Sicilian brioche.

Viale Lido, 22, 96012 Avola SR, Italy, facebook.com

The post A Foodie’s Guide To Sicily, by Vittorio Meli appeared first on Country and Town House.

A Creative Hotspot in Tuscany: Villa Lena

STAY

An agriturismo hotel-meets-retreat-meets-artists residency, at the heart of Villa Lena is creativity in all forms: architecture, design, artwork, food, and ethos. After all, the property is brought to you by contemporary art collector and a former curator, Lena Evstafieva, her husband, musician and producer Jérôme Hadey, and Parisian restaurateur and nightclub owner Lionel Bensemoun. Having seen an opportunity to bring together their experiences in the worlds of music, art, entertainment, film, fashion in once, unique place nine years ago, the result was Villa Lena.  

Situated within the province of Pisa, and set in 500 hectares of woodland, olive groves, and vineyards, there are 74 rooms and villas at Villa Lena, so guests can really tailor their stay, from boutique hotel rooms to private villas.

The accommodation features the recently renovated Fattoria, which dons superior rooms in ancient stables with vaulted ceilings, marble bathrooms and wooden floors, a short stroll from the restaurant and main pool. There’s also San Michele for those who want to be in the hub of the hotel – it’s in the same building as the namesake restaurant and bar, with six luxurious bedrooms, complete with en-suite bathrooms with bathtubs and French door-windows looking over the hills or to the 19th-century Villa – and they’re a stone’s throw away from the pool. The private villa, Casetta Bella, consists of three bedrooms, a self-contained kitchen, a large bathroom and its own outdoor patio area, as well as access to a private swimming pool, and it’s a 20-minute walk from San Michele. And lastly, there’s the choice to go big with the Maison Stento private villa, with its private pool, four en-suite double bedrooms, open-plan living space, outdoor terrace and kitchen – it’s an ideal choice for larger parties or families and a 20-minute walk from the hotel’s reception.

DO

There’s a whole host of things to see, do, experience and explore at Villa Lena, and for 2023, it has introduced new offerings in the form of fun and enlightening retreats that encourage creativity, collaboration, and connections amongst the curious, environmentally minded and adventurous travellers. As such, there’s Creative Retreats with Ana Kerin of Kana London, natural perfumery making, a summer solace break, and upcoming sees the October Harvest Festival Retreat, hosted by Marsano Team and Annett Kuhlman (11-16 October), the Autumn Yoga Retreat by Nina Butler (6-11 October), the 7-Day Yoga and the Cuisine & Dolce Far Niente Summer Retreat hosted by Robert Sidoti with Top Yoga Retreats (17-23 August). 

These retreats sit alongside an array of related events and workshops such as morning yoga, flower arranging, cocktail making, poolside DJ sets, water colour painting with Principal Instructor at The Florence Academy of Art Tanvi Pathare, and farm-to-table experiences that includes picking vegetables from their orto with the chef. There’s kid’s workshops and events throughout the year too, led by artists-in-residence, collaborators, and partners with foraging, collage, and culinary workshops.

To note, Villa Lena also produces its own wine on site, which provides an excellent excuse to tour their vineyard, and sample their vino, plus others from the local region – learning all about organic, biodynamic and natural wines along the way. In true Italian style, this is served with fresh focaccia and local cold cuts, how it should be.

Olive oil is also produced on the grounds, so there’s pasta making and olive oil tasting, with a chance to learn about the traditional and organic techniques used to harvest Extra Virgin Olive Oil from the 2,000 olive trees on the estate.

For all those foodies out there, the pezzo forte must be the truffle hunt, pasta workshop and lunch, that starts from early October – mark it in your diary. The most anticipated autumn activity in Tuscany, amongst the estate’s 500 hectares is ancient woodland and wildlife including wild boars and tartufi bianchi. Join the ‘silent hunt’, which means visitors can search for some of the best white truffles in Tuscany but doing so with a respect for nature.

As well as this, The Villa Lena Foundation, the art foundation that runs alongside the agriturismo hotel, has introduced Open Days for the 2023 season whereby it opens its doors to national and international curators, collectors, arts professionals and guests of the hotel to visit the studios, share a meal, listen to talks, and learn more about the ethos and work of the foundation; offering a chance for multidisciplinary artists to grow their network.

With the rotation of artists comes new artwork of varying mediums on show, displayed in the public spaces of the hotel, left by the alumni for guests to admire (and purchase), such as a new digital photograph created by Stephanie Roland titled ‘The Explorer’ in Villa Lena’s Fattoria building. 

Take a stroll about the estate and visit the medieval park, Toiano Vecchio, which was once the site of a medieval castle. Centred around a hill, at one of the highest points in the region, the site features an ancient fountain, a shell-clad grotto, and Villa Lena’s largest organic vegetable garden. Former artists-in-residence and landscape designers Jocelyn Oppenheim and Kate Smaby oversaw improvements including the Sunrise and Sunset terraces that allow guests to take in the scenery. The park is open to the public on Sundays during designated hours, and open to the hotel guests throughout the season.

For those who want to go further afield, explore the towns and cities such as the small walled 13th century, medieval hill town of San Gimignano (30km), Lucca (60km), Siena (75km), or Florence (80km).

EAT

It goes without saying, food is central to Villa Lena, and along with the culinary workshops, every day is an experience and a complete foodie’s delight. Being home to the destination farm-to-table restaurant, Osteria San Michele, it serves up breakfast, lunch and dinner in a casual, considered setting, along with bar – just pull up a stool and try one of their cocktails (the VL Spritz) or one of their wines. 

Here, expect the very best of authentic Italian cuisine that uses Villa Lena’s natural larder and orto – simple, organic ingredients such as homemade pasta, freshly made cheeses, and locally sourced meats are made into spectator dishes. All washed down with organic wines (and for those who want a taste of Tuscany at home their wines and olive oil are available to buy via their e-commerce site, Cabinet of Curiosities).

What’s more, flowers are picked from their sustainably grown flower garden, and these blooms adorn the tables of the restaurant, and throughout the property. 

Annabel Sougne

FINAL WORD

A very special agriturismo hotel located in the heart of rural Tuscany, Villa Lena makes for the perfect break, offering a chance to be fully immersed in creativity, wildlife, and deliciousness. Just soak up the 19th century Italian aristocratic vibes (the villa was once owned by the Augusto and Tereza Del Frate – and it was a party spot even back then). So, whether you’re wanting a family getaway, a solo trip, to kick back with your other half whilst taking in the picture-perfect Tuscan landscape by the pool (complete with a glass of the Villa Lena’s own sparkling rosé, of course), or get stuck into a creative retreat to awaken the senses, this place will be your happy place. 

BOOK IT: Rates start from €260 for B&B double occupancy. villa-lena.it

Images courtesy of: Villa Lena, Marina Denisova, Christina Labey, Niklas Adrian Vindelev, Dan Sauer, Lottie Hampson, Annabel Sougne and David Kaliga.

The post A Creative Hotspot in Tuscany: Villa Lena appeared first on Country and Town House.

InnTravel: From The French To The Italian Riviera Review

Things I will never understand: people who drive when they can walk, and people who fly when they can take a train. Luckily for me, the rail renaissance shows no signs of slowing, and as new routes and sleeper services continue to spring up all over Europe, there’s never been a better time to become au fait with the European railways. I am, however, easily overwhelmed with foreign ticketing services, large rail stations and, generally, being in the right place at the right time. Enter InnTravel, who not only arrange your entire trip from start to finish, book your hotels, rail tickets and connections, but pre-print your tickets and itinerary in a helpful folder packed with travel guides and advice for you to carry with you. As long as you remember your passport, you can’t go too wrong. The three stops along the way on this rail tour are Menton, Genoa and Monterosso al Mare, and while the tour itself is limited to travel and hotel bookings, the pre-departure information contains plenty of advice of places to explore and eat in each destination.

Menton, image courtesy of InnTravel

Days 1-3: Menton, France

A real lollipop of a town: small, sweet, yellow and lemony. I immediately started Googling property prices. InnTravel’s full and action-packed walking tour will ensure you don’t miss a single one of the lush botanical gardens, impressive palaces or historical landmarks. Of course, you could also just stroll along the promenade, wade into the ocean, sample seven ice cream flavours and buy exotic-looking fruits you can’t figure out the translations for and have no intention of eating. I chose the latter, and as a result, day two of the trip was one of my favourites of all time. The area is known for its fruit trees, so sample anything lemon-flavoured and seek out the orange drizzle cake from one of the (obviously outstanding) bakeries in the neat and hilly town. You can walk from end to end of Menton in half an hour or so, but be prepared for the hills, everything is stacked on top of each other in this colourful seaside gem, topped by the iconic yellow clock tower. 

STAY

Hotel Prince de Galles

This Best Western outposting is the only option offered in Menton by InnTravel and while it’s not the most luxurious or interesting accommodation in town, it is nicely positioned, comfortable and friendly. The exterior walls are painted a pretty peach and many of the rooms feature spacious sea-view balconies overlooking the palm-lined Mediterranean promenade. The road separating the hotel from the sea is quite busy though, so the balcony isn’t a peaceful oasis you’ll want to linger on, but no matter: you’ll want to get out and explore this picturesque town rather than staying put in the hotel. Rooms are clean and quiet, and the breakfast buffet is a crowd-pleaser. It’s a pretty 25-minute walk along the seafront to get into town, so if you intend to (/accidentally) do the walk six times in one day, you’ll be grateful for comfortable shoes.

Boccadasse, Genoa, image: Rebecca Cox

Days 3-5: Genoa, Italy

Genoa is the sprawling city between two small and (in theory) sleepy spots on this venture, and its streets are loud and bustling, packed with cruisers from enormous ships, hustlers trying to gain a few coins from them, and locals in a hurry. The old town is a maze of narrow alleyways and steep staircases, with crumbling facades contrasted against stunning carved archways, marble statues popping up between ramshackle buildings when you least expect them: a reminder that in Italy, there is always time for art. Speaking of which, art lovers will delight in the many and varied museums and palaces to explore in the city, from the Galata Museo del Mare to the Palazzo Ducale, in which you could lose hours (or days) at leisure. 

As in Menton, though, it is possible to park cultural pursuits in favour of following your feet (/nose). Mine led me to Boccadasse, a stunning (and famous) ancient fishing village with a small stony beach about 4km from the old town. Reminiscent of the equally famous (and crowded) Polignano a Mare on the opposite side of Italy in Puglia, it’s worth braving the crowds (mostly locals) to catch a glimpse of this beautiful minute bay surrounded by candy-coloured buildings. Grab a slice (read: three slices, minimum) of focaccia and an ice cream (two-scoops or more) and head to the rocks to take it all in in relative peace and quiet. Or have a bite at the charming trattoria playing Italian classics and cooking up hearty food alongside a cute beach bar serving up Aperol Spritzes from its narrow facade by the beach. No researching of property prices here, but there’s plenty for everyone in this city, and since it’s the birthplace of focaccia and pesto, the food alone is enough of a draw. The combination of the two was all too tempting: pesto focaccia for breakfast, lunch and dinner is not a sustainable diet. Time to move on. 

Proof of just how much focaccia we had to eat. Image: Rebecca Cox

STAY

Grand Hotel Savoia

The roof terrace of this central hotel is its biggest draw, with gorgeous views and two jacuzzis in the absence of a pool, though the hot tubs were often occupied by a loud child during my visit. Since he belonged to me, however, I was unable to lodge a complaint, but I can imagine a sunset dip with a romantic partner would be absolutely glorious. If the bar is open, here you can enjoy a sun-downer (opt for a Ligurian wine) and nibbles and watch as the moon takes the place of the sun, high above the hills of peach and orange buildings and ship funnels beyond. 

Rooms are individually styled with Italian charm and a touch of pizazz, heavy embroidered curtains and colourful sheer drapes, antique wooden chairs and tapestry headboards. Staff are friendly and welcoming (and great with noisy children), with a breakfast as stupendous as the dining room in which it’s taken, featuring pretty frescoed ceilings where goldfish swim and cranes take flight. No flights for us, however, and it was just a three-minute walk to the train station and on to the next stop. 

View of Monterosso al Mare from Hotel Porto Roca. Image: Rebecca Cox

Days 5-7 (or 8): Monterosso al Mare, Italy

This is the perfect jumping off point from which to explore Cinque Terre, one of Italy’s most stunning stretches of coast, famous for its rugged cliffs topped with too-pretty-to-be-real (but real none-the-less) candy coloured buildings sloping steeply toward the topaz water below. By this point in the trip I was ready to take things easy and decided on the train (which takes under 1.5 hours) that if the hotel room had a nice balcony (as promised in the itinerary) we would take things slowly for the remainder of the trip. Alas, though the terrace – gloriously quiet and with a view no photograph could do justice – was heavenly, the urge to explore the Cinque Terre was irresistible. So out we went. Hop between villages by train, or take a break from the railway and buy a ferry ticket and take them in by sea. Spotting dolphins jumping out of the water in our boat’s slipstream and watching local children cliff-diving satisfied opposite ends of the thrill-spectrum, but both were unforgettable. I won’t waste your time listing off which villages you should spend time in: all are beautiful, bustling with boat and rail traffic and bursting at the seams with pretty shops, pesto-pasta pit-stops and plenty of gelatarias. Monterosso itself hosts the region’s best beaches, long and with stony and sandy stretches to choose from. Your hotel stay includes a spot on the beach under a chic green and orange umbrella in front of the (incredibly photogenic) old town, but it’s also worth walking through the underpass to the new town to grab a cone of fried anchovies, a local favourite, and to check out Il Gigante, where the ruins of a colossal Neptune overlook the beach below. Because how does one know one is in Italy if not within touching distance of a work of art?

Il Gigante. Image: Rebecca Cox

STAY

Hotel Porto Roca

As locations go, they don’t come better than Hotel Porto Roca, perched on a cliff at the very edge of Monterosso al Mare, overlooking the smaller of the town’s beaches, on the old-town side of the tunnel. Reaching it with luggage, however, is no holiday. A steep, narrow driveway leads to the property, with seemingly only one taxi driver mad enough to make the trip to transport arriving and departing guests. Hikers leap out of the way as he revs impatiently and rides the clutch to the mechanical brink, the wheels inches from the cliff edge (and my nerves already over it). Since there’s the possibility of meeting said taxi half-way up if you choose to pull your luggage yourself, however, it’s better to be inside it. Once safely checked in, rooms are basic but clean and bright, though small upgrades (glasses to replace plastic cups, china in place of disposable paper) would enhance both the luxury and the eco-credentials of the property. No time for putting the kettle on though, since rooms feature stunning sea views from balconies or spacious terraces, and with a gorgeous beach below and an enticing panoramic pool to enjoy, there’s little to hang around inside for. The rest of the hotel features charming decor with colourful rugs, chic velvet sofas and nautical treasures throughout. The pool and hot tub facilities are top notch, with a superb pool bar that stays open until midnight. Book an extra night here if you can, and enjoy a full day of laying out by the pool for a bonus taste of the fly-and-flop (/rail-and-exhale?) holiday life.  

Monterosso al Mare. Image: Rebecca Cox

THE FINAL WORD

A postcard-perfect view every-which-way you look, including through the window of the train between stops. If you see yourself as something of an intrepid explorer, but your brow starts to bead after five minutes of navigating a foreign public transport website (let alone tackling the thing unaided in person), this InnTravel Riviera rail tour is the perfect way to keep you flap-free and on-track, as you travel along one of Europe’s most beautiful coastlines. 

BOOK

Inntravel (inntravel.co.uk  01653 617000) offers From the French to the Italian Riviera – A Touring Holiday by Rail from £1,155pp based on 2 sharing, including 6 nights’ B&B in two 4-star and one 5-star hotels, rail tickets between hotels,  notes for walking tours of Menton & Genoa, and cultural notes. Available 2 April – 31 October.

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Hotel Review: Castello di Vicarello, Tuscany

Remote, down-to-earth and quintessentially Italian, Castello di Vicarello trumps all the other big castellos with its no fuss luxe attitude to mediaeval throwback living. The rolling hills of Toscana are your backdrop, with vineyards, stone farm shacks and blue skies stretching for as far as your little eyes can see. The vibe? Brothers Neri and Brando are the kings of the castle having succeeded their much adored (and exceedingly well-connected) parents Carlo and Aurora Baccheschi. 

It’s all very glossy magazine – Lara Stone famously did a shoot for Vogue here, and Mario Testino joins the rest of the media glitterati (think hotshot Americans, chic Dontatellas and the unassuming London set) for their summer escapes – yet there’s not a whiff of toff about the place whatsoever.

You’ll be on a first name basis by the time you check out. Here, you are made to feel part of the family, so don’t expect a whiff of formality here. There’s no eye-rolling check-in, and your first encounter with any form of life comes in the form of the pooch of the castle, the lovely and exceptionally well behaved Uva. It’s all a little bit ad-hoc, but that’s the point and very much the Italian way.

But perhaps the best thing about this place is the fact that it’s in the middle of nowhere. With unplugging the topic du jour of the moment, zen’s antidote comes in the form of bumpy dirt roads and a heck of a lot of flora and fauna. The closest smidge of human life comes courtesy of the small village of Cinigiano, a typical hilltop fortress which, come snoozing hours, is quite literally a ghost town.

STAY

It’s Tuscany meets island Bali living – yes, really. The house of Baccheschi have owned this glorious fortress since the 1970s and, over the years, have left their mark in every crevice and every crack gracing their family home’s walls. Everything from the castle to the surrounding mish mash of stone buildings have been blissfully restored to preserve the heritage of its architectural bones. 

Inside and out, a picture of quintessential Tuscan living reigns supreme: cutesy kitchen draped in linens (plus a period stove), lounge kitted out with totems from Indonesia to Malaysia, corridors lit with gloomy candles and grand cast-iron chandeliers, and a conservatory featuring knockout views of the hills. 

The suites are just as eclectic. None are the same, but expect Indonesian daybeds, antique Persian rugs, modern art pieces and intricately carved wooden vintage chest that shriek wow. Copper tin (and marble) baths are also part of the deal, and if you find yourself in the Hollywood-esque Chiesina apartment, a lovely pergola donning exceptional breezy views overlooking the countryside.

Suite Sassi living room

DO

Surprisingly, and aside from lounging by the stonkingly gorgeous pool, there’s a lot to do out in the sticks. Cooking lessons in the kitchen, horseback riding in the valley, yoga, massages in the wood-lined spa, wine tasting in the vineyards and barbecues at the familial coastal estate headline the roster of fun offered by the Baccheschis. My advice? Ditch it all for a spin in the estate’s vintage Cinquecento. All guests can take the charming little motor out for a spin on request, day or night. It’s best summed up as la dolce vita to the max and perhaps this Castello’s prime Instagram opp. Pack a glam scarf, a pair of cool shades and, if you’re feeling the part, a picnic to live out all your Italian fantasies up on a hill come sunset. 

EAT

Farm to table is the ethos through and through. Sustainable living is not a trend here but, since the castello opened up for business, the hotel has sourced from local farmers, nurtures herbs from their Italian gardens and picks all the fruits of the annual Tuscan harvest. Ingredients are also picked fresh from the veggie garden, eggs collected from the chicken coop and breads baked at the crack of dawn. Chefs make it a priority to ensure local suppliers deliver the goods when they can’t scoop up the meat on the estate, and – as is the Tuscan way – the seasons dictate whatever appears on the menu.

All the grub is simple, hearty, painstakingly traditional and to the point. Al dente homemade pastas (the pici with wild boar is a standout) and the Fiorentina are must-trys, plus the excellent wine pairings and crusty breads served with local olive oil make it a meal to remember. Breakfast? A light affair with fresh fruits, cakes, juices and scrumptious jams.

THE FINAL WORD

It’s sexy, unpretentious and in a country known for its exceptionally chic grand dames, offers something a little more unique, quizzically fun and, dare I say it, refreshingly interesting from the rest of its stuffy competition.

BOOK IT

castellodivicarello.com

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The Best Luxury Villas in Italy to Rent for 2023

Castello Nettuno

Tuscany

Make like royalty in this Tuscan medieval castle, equidistant from Florence and Siena and built over 1000 years ago. Situated on a picturesque hilltop overlooking vineyards and olive groves, with panoramic views of rolling hills, Castello Nettuno is so awe-inspiring that it was even mentioned by Dante Alighieri in his Divine Comedy. Flash forward to 2014, the current owners were immediately enraptured when they discovered the marvellous property, considering it the ideal family retreat with a spacious garden, trampoline, playground and table tennis. With space for four in the main villa and six in the guest house, groups and families can spend the day by the heated infinity pool, enjoy dinner from the pizza oven under the covered pergola, or sip on a glass of Tuscan wine by the bar. Paradise.

BOOK IT: homeinitaly.com

Abaco

Sardinia

Over in Sardinia, Abaco evokes classic Italian glamour, situated in the iconic Porto Cervo – just steps from the Smeralda coast – and boasting luxurious design. Across two stories featuring six en-suite bedrooms, there’s a harmonious blend of architectural design and Mediterranean vegetation, with minimalist interiors soaked by the Sardinian sun flooding through floor-to-ceiling windows. Head here for luxurious relaxation, with an onsite wellness and spa area with a massage room, as well as a movie room for groups looking to spend quality time without leaving the comfort of the villa. As well as a pergola for al fresco dining, there’s a grassed roof terrace and a tiered swimming pool emulating natural ponds, both with sweeping maritime views.

BOOK IT: homeinitaly.com

Argilla

Tuscany

Situated on a private estate of 150 idyllic hectares and romantic, manicured gardens, this Italian villa is ideally located between Siena and Monte San Savino, with accommodation spread across three guest houses that have been recently carefully restored by local craftsmen. Combining modern luxury with rustic charm, head to Argilla for guaranteed privacy and relaxation amid a homely, centuries-old farmhouse with spacious living areas. Gather for delicious meals in the 12-seater dining room, dine al fresco in the garden’s two lounge areas, or relax beside the infinity pool with its white cabanas. There’s also a playground, beach volleyball area, bocce court and tennis court, as well as a bonfire area, all surrounded by unforgettable bucolic Tuscan countryside. 

BOOK IT: homeinitaly.com

Mediterranea

Sicily

Or head to Sicily, Italy’s southernmost region, to experience Mediterranea, a large Italian villa sleeping up to 27 guests and brimming with character. With a chic swimming pool, 11 ensuite bedrooms and an onsite restaurant across 27 acres, Mediterranea is a storied property set amid tranquil countryside and close to Noto, UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to the stunning Noto Cathedral. This Italian villa has been recently renovated by skilled architects and designers from a 19th century farmhouse into a refined yet charming sanctuary. Across a range of living and dining spaces, collections of art evoke the property’s Sicilian past, arranged purposefully alongside modern chairs, lamps and hand painted tiles.

BOOK IT: homeinitaly.com

Travertino

Tuscany

Though it was built in 1700, Travertino is a surprisingly contemporary, spacious retreat set in a 25 acre hillside vineyard. Close to Umbria, the region is known for its bucolic countryside, which can be seen through large, uncurtained windows, around the infinity pool hidden between vineyards and olive groves, or across the village-like estate. A work of art itself and built with famous local Travertine stone, this sophisticated property sleeps up to 16 guests with two guest houses providing two more double bedrooms – ideal for group gatherings in idyllic surroundings. There’s also a third building with a pizza oven, stone built barbeque and a bar, along with a room for wine tasting, to facilitate sun soaked catch ups. With a spa, gym and private tennis court all onsite, as well as bikes for activity lovers looking to explore the rolling hills on the doorstep, this is the ideal Tuscan bolthole for relaxation and activity lovers alike.

BOOK IT: homeinitaly.com

Featured image: Argilla‘s manicured gardens.

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The Best Hotels In Tuscany

Villa Lena

Calling all foodies: Villa Lena is the Tuscan hideaway for you. Located just south of Pontedera, Villa Lena offers a creative agriturismo experience in the Tuscan countryside, between Pisa and Florence. Having recently opened the farm-to-table restaurant, Osteria San Michele, fresh produce is at the heart of it, and it’s grown in their organic orto, overseen by Head Gardner Pierluigi (he has 25 years of experience working on the land). The menu includes strawberries, cucumbers, eggplants, zucchini, watermelons, and potatoes in the summer through to cavolo nero, beetroot, radishes, and white truffles in the autumn. This is complete with organic wines, and specialty cocktails, spearheaded by Head Chef Marco Baldeschi.

‘Villa Lena is about bringing a contemporary and creative flourish to the traditional Tuscan lifestyle, and we are delighted to see this coming together perfectly in our restaurant,’ says Lena Evstafieva, owner, and founder of Villa Lena. ‘Both organically and by design, Villa Lena has always been a hotbed of creativity and collaboration, so working with such an incredible and eclectic team to create a new restaurant is the perfect reflection of this central ethos. As so often is the case, the outcome is even greater than the sum of its parts.’

For a reset, try their Create and Restore Program that includes a three night’s stay on half board (breakfasts and dinners included), creative ceramic workshops with artist in residency Eloise White, yoga classes, a guided hike, pasta and cocktail making classes, as well as olive oil and wine tastings.

BOOK IT: villa-lena.it

Il Pellicano, Porto Ercole

When it comes to the best hotels in Tuscany, no list is complete without the starlet hotel of the Tuscan coast: Il Pellicano is, and always will be, the thing of Italian legends. Its position, tucked into the grooves of a cliff overlooking a private cove, has caught the imagination of thousands, from Hollywood stars to Slim Aarons.

Il Pellicano’s romantic history is what keeps the punters flocking. Born from the love story of a British ex-pilot and an American actress who built the hotel in the 1960s, la dolce vita lives on thanks to its current owners who, under the watchful eyes of Marie-Louise Sciò, has cultivated the resort into one of the most fashionable hangouts on the Med. Think villas fringed with florals, dreamy seascape views, plush spa (with every product under the sun), dashing boutique, sexy saltwater pool and a beach club scalloped by the sparkling blue sea. Rooms? Classic and stylish with lots of colour that bring in the warm terracotta shades of the coast. Some have terraces and others don knockout views of the sea – a real treat come sunrise. By Luke Abrahams

BOOK IT: hotelilpellicano.com

COMO Castello Del Nero

The first European property by COMO Hotels and Resorts, Castello Del Nero is nestled within a 740-acre estate in the Chianti hills of central Tuscany. The grand twelfth century castle oozes luxury inside and out with an interior that merges Renaissance frescoes and contemporary design by Paola Navone. There’s plenty on offer for the mind and body, from the deluxe spa – the region’s first Asian-inspired wellness facility, the COMO Shambhala Retreat, as well as a heated outdoor pool and fitness area named the Forest Gym, tennis courts and walking trails.

Then there’s Michelin-starred at La Torre, which is overseen by Executive Chef Giovanni Luca Di Pirro. Here, there’s an ever-changing menu of Italian dishes made with local ingredients, while the atmospheric La Taverna serves signature Tuscan favourites in the castle’s original kitchen, dating back 900 years. A collection of curated culinary experiences also allow guests to learn and taste the Tuscan produce, from a truffle hunt to wine tasting in the castle cellar.

BOOK IT: comohotels.com

Bagni di Pisa

It’s all about the regal thermal history here at this plush resort spa, a member of Leading Hotels of the World slap bang in the middle of the pretty Tuscan village of San Giuliano. Bagni di Pisa began life as the former summer residence of the Grand Duke of Toscana back in 1743 when he decided it was the spot to enjoy warm spa waters in the region. It’s easy to see why it got the royal seal of approval: mouth-dropping views from the Monte Pisano Hills (Leaning Tower of Pisa view included), hidden underground grotto and it’s just a 15-minute drive away from the rather stunning town of Lucca. 

The inside is just as impressive. The first floor wows with all its frescoed ceilings in the suites, alongside the Shelley Bar (of Frankenstein fame) and terrace dotted with all sorts of 18th century bling from drapes to urns filled with florals and decorative wrought iron numbers. The main attraction, however, is undoubtedly the spa. There’s oodles to enjoy, namely the floating pool, sauna and Turkish bath, plus mud and a soiree of beauty treatments. If you really want to go for it, weight-loss and detox programs reign supreme on the spa menu. By Luke Abrahams

BOOK IT: lhw.com

Oasyhotel

A pioneering nature-immersive wilderness retreat, Oasyhotel is situated within the protected Dynamo Oasis Nature Reserve in the San Marcello Piteglio region, and offers 16 lodges that’s ideal for families, friends, couples and solo travellers alike. Combining environmental conservation, social responsibility and positive responsible tourism, the family-owned and privately run Oasyhotel is, as well as one of the best hotels in Tuscany, a non-profit organisation with all hotel revenue going towards the conservation of the Oasi Dynamo reserve.

The expansive 1,000+ hectares of land consists of forest, farmland, lakes and rivers with rare plants and a huge range of biodiversity along with wildlife including wolves, deer, and wild boar. There’s a whole host of active outdoor adventure and wilderness wellbeing activities (from wolf tracking to horse riding, foraging, forest therapy, kayaking, and meditation).

Guests can also become a Tuscan farmer for a day at its Oasi Dynamo Farm with an interactive farm tour and cheese-making classes, which is then eaten for lunch. Farm-to-table cuisine is popular here too, with two main restaurants for guests to choose from, Le Felci which is located in a stone farmhouse close to the lodges, and the open-air Casa Luigi that’s a perfect spot for long Tuscan-style lunches overlooking the nature reserve.

BOOK IT: oasyhotel.com

Terme di Saturnia Hotel Resort & Spa

The star of this waterworld wonder is its thermal pool. Italians have been flocking to it for years, not just for the wonders it does on the epidermis, but also for the coveted Instagram shot. A member of Leading Hotels of the World, the famous spring dates all the way back to the Etruscan era and generations (including gobbly-eyed tourists) have lapped up its bubbling regenerative waters since. Rooms are a blast from the past (think 80s Italiana) yet snug with roomy beds and bathrooms stocked with natural bathing products sourced locally. 

The thermal spring

Aside from bobbling in the pool night and day, the spa offers all sorts of regenerative therapies targeted to capitalise on all the healing powers of the natural spring water. Think massages, pumice and the odd bit of mud. Once you’re done in the hotel, head for the natural spa, but go early, as beyond 8am you can expect what the concierge dubbed ‘hell’. Pack your camera, as it’s seriously pretty, too. There’s also the use of an 18-hole golf course and, if you are feeling extra adventurous, hikes, horse riding and mountain biking can be arranged on request. By Luke Abrahams

BOOK IT: lhw.com

Lupaia

Located on a hilltop overlooking Montepulciano and the surrounding countryside, Lupaia offers a tranquil escape, Tuscan style. Set on a country estate, the small but perfectly formed hotel promises an intimate and romantic hideaway with just 12 rooms and suites that are all unique, and spread across five ancient farmhouse buildings.

At the heart of the hotel is the main house and annex that dates back to 1622, with an open kitchen where guests meet every evening for an authentic home-cooked, four course menu, with ingredients from their organic vegetable garden and the local markets. The menu changes every day and includes traditional Tuscan dishes and classic Italian favourites.

For exploring, Lupaia is close to the historic towns of Siena, Arezzo, Florence and Perugia, and for relaxation try out the hotel’s infinity pool that has views of the village of Montefollonico and rolling hills.

BOOK IT: lupaia.com

Castello di Casole, a Belmond Hotel

Romance galore, the Castello di Casole property by Belmond is set within 4,200 acres of land that includes a game reserve, vineyards and olive groves. When it comes to the accommodation, the hotel consists of 39 indulgent rooms, and be sure to check in the Limonaia suites (a converted lemon barn) that come with their very own gardens, living room and there’s a split-level layout, or the rich in history Tinaia suites, that are close to the chapel and don original stone walls complete with mosaics.

For those wanting to keep active there are walking and cycling trails, fitness centre, croquet lawn, and a heated outdoor infinity pool that’s built into the hillside and overlooks the valleys of Siena. There’s also a cinema, games room, and a wine cellar-turned-luxury spa that has high vaulted ceilings, restored stone walls and Etruscan artifacts, Roman-bath-inspired plunge pools, treatment rooms, plus a garden terrace for morning yoga sessions. As for drinks and dining options there’s an array to suit your mood from the pool bar, wine cellar and Bar Visconti (named after the previous owners), to the purely Italian restaurant Tosca and the elegant Emporio.

BOOK IT: belmond.com

Featured image: Castello di Casole

The post The Best Hotels In Tuscany appeared first on Country and Town House.

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Wellness Retreats: The Best Places in the World to Meditate in 2023

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And if you can’t travel…

We also called on Dominique Antiglio, Sophrologist and founder of BeSophro to get some expert advice on choosing meditation locations…

‘Sophrology is a type of dynamic meditation that I love to practice because it can be easily incorporated into daily life. I have had amazing Sophrology experiences at the Ghats in Varanasi, India which faces the Ganges River, as well as being wrapped up among the mountains of Courmayeur facing Mont Blanc, and also in Ibiza when facing the sea. I also love practising early morning on Primrose Hill as it offers such a beautiful view over London, and no two days are ever the same so I have a unique view each time.’

But you don’t have to leave the comfort of your own home. ‘For best practice at home, I advise people to create a private space at home or in the office with a comfy chair. If you have a small, shared space only, don’t let it stop you, as you can put your headphones on and listen via a guided practice.

‘You may wish to personalise your space with a photo of a loved one or have an item of sentimental value nearby to enhance the connection of the space to your inner world. You could also light a scented candle to create a sense of calm and tranquillity in your space.

‘Personally, I have a comfy chair in my light, airy and minimalist office where I love to sit and start my Sophrology meditation practice mid-morning. I usually have a cup of herbal tea nearby to drink when I finish too. I also practice in between meetings, and even on the Tube and in taxis – if I feel tense, just five minutes of simple breathing and relaxation techniques is enough to relax me.’

So if you do make it to one of our ultimate meditation locations, you’ll have to pack the memories up to take home with you, back to your hardwood floor with the number 32 bus outside, to conjure up the images of your retreat as you find your inner calm on demand…

Featured Image: Palm Rock.

The post International Wellness Retreats 2023: The Best Places to Meditate This Year appeared first on Country and Town House.

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Amalfi Coast: The Ultimate Travel Guide

From Capri all the way down to Salerno, Amalfi’s string of starry towns and villages conjure up the nostalgia of a quintessentially romantic big screen classic. There’s Sorrento, a handsome cliff-riddled mega resort with unrivalled views over the peaks of Vesuvius. Unknown Procida, a fuzzy, quiet fisherman’s village and Europe’s culture capital for 2022. Jet-set Positano, a mystical buzzing fortress of pastel cascades home to designer boutiques, stylish restaurants, Insta-ready cafes and beaches filled with spritz-sipping poster girls that ooze all shades of lazy hazy summer chic. Further down the coast, ancient Amalfi stuns with its Arabic-Norman cathedral and nearby hiking trails, while up in the hills, the charming literary town of Ravello stirs even the hardest hearts with its dreamscape streets, bewitching gardens and absolutely mesmerising breezy sea views.

And thanks to a quartet of private yachts and speedy ferries, its effortlessly easy to bounce from one historical coastal nirvana to the other. Adored by literary greats, Hollywood royalty and the world’s most glamorous supermodels, here, we go on a luxe whistle stop tour of the coast, exploring and eating our way through some of Italy’s most famous restaurants, hotels and iconic landmarks.

Where To Stay On The Amalfi Coast

Casa Angelina, Praiano

The starlet of Praiano is all about ditching the mania of Amalifitana for a slice of La Dolce Vita reimagined. The brilliant white cuboid palace preaches a self-love kind of philosophy that celebrates the art of chilling à la prive on the coast. A magnet for the lazy hazy summer glitterati, heart-stopping views wow from the lemon tree flecked Casa Angelina terrace, and sheer white rooms come complete with all sorts of unusual art pieces, from murano bling to locally blown glass sculptures. Aside from all the flash, the hotel runs a staunch green policy, leading the coast with all sorts of initiatives, including upcycling raw materials, eco buggies, gardens potted with hotel food waste and made-to-order delicacies at breakfast (don’t miss the pancakes – they are worth the wait). For the feeling of absolute exclusivity, book one of the four Eaudesea Experience rooms hidden 250 steps down from the hotel just above La Gavitella Beach. Fancy a blowout? The new Etro suite ticks all the boxes with Italianate furniture and a terrace with views overlooking the bay, Positano, and on a clear day, all the way down to Capri. casangelina.com

Punta Tragara, Capri

Capri’s grand dame is hands down an island classic. The location is unbeatable: views of the bay and, if you are in the right corner room, the iconic Faraglioni pinnacles made famous by countless films and photographs. The entire thing is the work of Italian engineer Enrico Vismara who chose this spot to build his once-private villa alongside French-Swiss architect Le Corbusier. Years in the making, the result is a bit of a modernist marvel marked by aristocratic party island bling and those million-dollar views. The entire thing is getting a bit of a facelift, with new suites, terraces and bars all getting the upgrade treatment. Expect Etro bling and all sorts of flashy boutique fashion collabs. All the rooms are scattered across three floors, and all come with either balcony, terrace or patio facing gardens, the rocks or the deep blue sea. Grub? Salads al fresco on the bar terrace or turn up in your finest frocks for the hotel’s Michelin-starred Mammà in Capri town. Think nice wines and a modern take on Italian antipasti, caprese kebabs and all. manfredihotels.com

Villa Treville, Positano 

The former home of Franco Zeffirelli delivers all the goods: top notch panoramas, knockout location and home living on the grandest of scales. A mashup of Italian Moorish style, the jet-set pad, spread over five acres, is a bit of a dreamland. Dramatic glimpses of Positano are a given at every corner, and as the late director himself once said, the place is ‘a riot of Mediterranean vegetation, pines, flowers, trees, and cacti.’ Scurry along its coastline digs and there are more surprises from a veggie garden, grotto and a sea view spa kitted out with potions from German skincare whizz Barbara Sturm. Tennessee Williams, Laurence Olivier, Leonard Bernstein, Liza Minnelli, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton were all fans, hence the several odes to them throughout (suites and all), plus the several cinematic totems scattered up and down the place. It’s, in a nutshell, Hollywood at best. The food kicks a punch with fresh, line caught catches of the day, making up much of the menu, best finished off with a kick-ass granita. Breakfast? Made-to-order and vacuumed early on the terrace to catch a glimpse of those killer sunrise hues. villatreville.com

Borgo Santandrea Amalfi

This new cliffside Amalfi fantasy is about to be your go-to summer getaway. Why? It’s basically a swish LA-esque pad meets ancient castle mashup that, and unlike other hotels dotted along Amalfi, has access to its very own private beach. Oh, and it’s the first hotel of its kind to open swish, shiny doors on the Amalfi Coast in 15 years. Big news. The passion project of proud Ischian Maurizio Orlacchio, the 29-room, 16-suite Borgo Santandrea comes complete with three regional-first restaurants courtesy of Executive Chef Crescenzo Scotti, a heavenly and very swish bar terrace, and rocky pool donning exquisite seascape panoramas. Italian design takes centre stage, especially in the social areas, where everyone from Rubelli to custom-made furniture design emporiums Tosconova and LISAR wow alongside hand-blown Venetian glass, telescopes eyeing the sea and cosy literary nooks made for lazy, hazy summer afternoons. Best room? The deluxe suite with its very own garden and private sunrise-ready pool.

BOOK IT: borgosantandrea.it

Monastero Santa Rosa Hotel, Amalfi

The 17th-century former Dominican monastery dominates the craggy shoreline about a kilometre from Amalfi and is perhaps best known for its killer views and knockout infinity pool that attracts everyone from celebrities to royalty and the crème de la glam of the influencer glitterati. Perhaps the most surprising thing about the place, is that despite its lofty appearance, Monastero is home to just 20 intimate rooms and suites. The best of the bunch come with terraces and are kitted out with all sorts of charming curios and antiquities collected over the years by the hotel’s well-travelled American owner – the nun merch also gave us the giggles, too. Aside from all the historical nods to its storied past, Michelin-starred dining takes centre stage on the terrace and the well-manicured gardens that topple over the cliff seriously wow come sunset. Spa? Think caves oozing natural light and gorgeous Santa Maria Novella products. The early morning Insta shot on the edge of the pool, cocktail in hand, is non-negotiable.

BOOK IT: monasterosantarosa.com

Le Sirenuse, Positano

Cool, calm, and ever so chic, Le Sirenuse owners Antonio and Carla Sersale mastermind an elegant show packing in all the sorcery you’d expect to find in one of Italy’s, and indeed the world’s, great hotels. Once a former aristocratic villa, Le Sirenuse’ storied past tells a tale of romanticised Amalfi passion chronicling generations of the House of Sersale: beautiful furniture, curios, and antique mementos shine amongst an impressive collection of period and contemporary paintings, alongside art pieces courtesy of Martin Creed, Stanley Whitney, and Matt Connors throughout. Aldo’s Bar is a prime Aperitivo spot, and the dreamy La Sponda restaurant serves dishes alongside a handsome quartet that sing some of the most tender tunes out there. There is also a spa and a vintage Riva speedboat for those that wish to go all out.

BOOK IT: sirenuse.it

Il San Pietro di Positano, Positano

The hotel’s location is pretty hard to beat. Suites and rooms are carved into the rock face away from the prying eyes of tourists. People come here not just for the exclusive privacy (a reason it’s a firm favourite for celebs from George Clooney to Julia Roberts), but also to retreat from the hustle and bustle of Positano, the kaleidoscopic glitterati pitstop the hotel looks out to over on the east. Rooms are huge (and most have full-on views of Positano or the water), the terraced gardens spectacular, and there’s a Michelin-starred date-night ready restaurant that makes the most of local seafood and produce from San Pietro’s kitchen garden. The private beach, tennis court and the relaxed, lunch-only Carlino restaurant are all well worth a visit. Back up top, the terrace is the place to be come sunset Aperitivo, and the legendary pool is just Instagram goals.

BOOK IT: ilsanpietro.com

Santa Caterina, Amalfi

A 10-minute stroll from Amalfi itself, Santa Caterina remains one of the best placed hotels on the entire coast. Dwellings are made for Instagram. Think colourful tiles, chairs draped in fashionably chic Italian linens, yellow sun loungers (the social media influencers love them) and of course, Hollywood-esque bougainvillaea-wrapped balconies. Restaurant Glicine is lively and fun and serves up hearty local dishes from sticky mozzarella with tomatoes that burst with flavour and Napoli’s famous, deep-fried macaroni with meatballs. It’s also one of the very few hotels on the Amalfi Coast that has direct access to the sea thanks to a terrace that creeps out of the rocky hillside – a very major bonus to all those that check in here.

BOOK IT: hotelsantacaterina.it

Palazzo Avino, Ravello

Located on the edge of Ravello’s eastern ridge, the family-run Palazzo Avino dons incredibly romantic views across the valley to the Bay of Salerno and beyond. Painfully manicured terraces treacle down to the glittering sun-scorched pool while Rossellini’s, the glam restaurant, is easily one of the finest restaurants in the town. Rooms are deliciously Moroccan-esque in style. Expect handmade Vietri tiled floors, a fine stash of 19th-century mementos, floors clad in oriental rugs, gilded mirrors and marble tubs (some freestanding) in the glitzy (and very well-lit) bathrooms, and if you are in one of the brand-new suites, lots of loud but tasteful art deco pieces. Further down on the rocks, a chic private beach club awaits with umbrella-lined patios that snake down to the crystal-clear waters. The hotel boutique, The Pink Closet, is also worth a browse for ladies in search of an indie designer steal.

BOOK IT: palazzoavino.com

Where To Eat & Drink

La Fontelina, Capri

An Amalfi classic flecked with blue and white umbrellas that dot all over the craggy sea-facing shores. It’s a day/afternoon beach club kind of affair where tourists and locals lap up buckets of wine before they dine in the low-key restaurant. The menu is mammoth, but in all honesty, the best thing to have here post a few hours of catching Mother Nature’s rays is a simple, but very tasty Caesar, prepared Capri-style of course. Via dei Faraglioni, 2, 80073 Capri NA, Italy / +39 081 837 0845 / fontelina-capri.com

Cumpa’ Cosimo, Ravello

You know it’s good because all the locals come to eat here. Thanks to Jackie Kennedy, who dined here to escape the media when she visited the coast decades back, Cumpa’ Cosimo now enjoys a somewhat legendary status. It’s a classic, family-run Italian restaurant, with dark wooden furniture, white tablecloths and old paintings and photographs on the walls, located just off the main piazza in Ravello. Dishes follow the seasons, but if you want to try something that will truly blow your mind (as well as your linens off), order their signature dish of five types of homemade pasta served with tagliatelle ragu, cheese-and-ham-filled crepe, tomato basil rigatoni, tomato gnocchi and troffe. Via Roma, 44, 84010 Ravello SA, Italy / +39 089 857156

Da Adolfo, Positano

Ask anyone in these parts and they’ll tell you this place is legendary. Heck, even Carla Sersale of Le Sirenuse told us “it is the best restaurant in the world.” To reach the coveted spot, you’ll have to jump on a little boat from the port in Positano. Once there, grab a chair and scoff everything from local fish to mozzarella on lemon leaves and whatever the waiter tells you to eat. It is worth making a day of it, especially because it’s got its own beach armed with views that stretch all the way to Capri. The spot is very popular, so be sure to book at least two weeks ahead. Via Laurito, 40, 84017 Positano SA, Italy / +39 089 875022 / daadolfo.com

Bacco, Furore

For a hotel restaurant, you’ll be blown away. Bacco is a Slow Food kind of place that’s been around for over half a century specialising in local living by supporting small farms and producers close to the kitchens. Service is exemplary with eagle-eyed waiters ready to charm you with their stories of the coast and more. The menu is stunning featuring spun pastas, and perhaps, the best linguine we’ve ever devoured. Those that need to up their cooking game will be pleased to know that lessons in all things Italian cuisine are also available. Via Giambattista Lama, 9, 84010 Furore SA, Italy / +39 089 830360 / baccofurore.it

Belmond Caruso Hotel, Ravello

The original ivy-clad building dates all the way back to the 11^th century, and like Villa Cimbrone, drew in Virginia Woolf and other Bloomsbury set types, and later Jackie Kennedy and Humphrey Bogart. Feel free to snoop – the hotel staff welcome it – and don’t miss the mountainside infinity pool – one of the best Instagram shots you’ll get this side of Amalfi.

Aperitivo here is non-negotiable, especially at the hotel bar donning insane views over Ravello and beyond. Tommaso Mansi, the Belmond Hotel Caruso’s head barman, has crafted a mammoth list of cocktails to suit every palette, from Aperol twists to gimlets gushing with Amalfi par excellence. Request to sit by the arches for absolute panoramic romantic escapism. Piazza S. Giovanni del Toro, 2, 84010 Ravello SA, Italy / +39 089 858801 / belmond.com

Don Alfonso1890, Sant’Agata

Don Alfonso 1890 makes is well worth the detour to get to. The family-run hotel and ristorante runs deep with a passion evident in the health-conscious menu, off-site organic farm, and flavour-packed dishes. Enjoy a tour of the subterranean wine and cheese cellar before a farm-to-table sensory experience. Many recipes are grounded in tradition and date back generations, while others were invented or renewed in recent years. Standouts? The menu changes so often it’s hard to keep up but what we can guarantee is a meal you are unlikely to ever forget. Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, Corso Sant’Agata, 11/13, 80061 Massa Lubrense NA, Italy / +39 081 878 0026 / donalfonso.com

Pasticceria Andrea Pansa, Amalfi

Everywhere in Italy is pretty great at making an espresso but, for a taste of yesteryears vibe, head to Pansa, in Amalfi’s main square. The pasticceria was opened in 1830 by its namesake, Andrea Pansa, and still retains its 19th-century interior, gilded mirrors included. Try chocolate-dipped lemon and orange peel, or a babà – a Neapolitan staple. It’s extra delicious with a short-and-strong espresso, too. Piazza Duomo, 40, 84011 Amalfi SA, Italy / +39 089 871065 / pasticceriapansa.it

What To See In Amalfi

The Path of the Gods, Coastal Route

The Sentiero degli Dei (Path of the Gods) is by far the best-known walk on the Amalfi Coast for two reasons: first, it’s spectacular from start to finish; and second, unlike most Amalfi treks, it doesn’t involve a horrendous amount of stair climbing. The walk starts in the village of Bomerano , easily accessible from Amalfi town by cab and continues through quintessential mountaintop dreamscapes to the very pretty Nocelle. Advice: pack comfortable shoes and a lot of water.

Explore the coast on water

In Positano, and for something just a little different, take a boat from the quay at Positano and visit the Grotta delle Matera (which you can explore) and the pretty, disconcertingly named cove Marina di Crapolla, for a glimpse of the Roman-villa ruins on the beach. If you’ve got some extra time, also stop at the three small islands known as Li Galli (literally meaning the cockerels), believed by the Ancients to be home to the Sirens, whose songs rang so powerful they lead thousands of ships to their demise. Or, just simply ask your hotel to take out on a sunset tour or the coast, champagne and nibbles included.

Villa Cimbrone Gardens, Ravello

Open until sunset, the refashioned 11th century Villa Cimbrone (now a luxury retreat for the social elite) is home to a series of sublime gardens that were created by British peer Ernest Beckett alongside the valuable input of the English gardener Vita Sackville-West. Blossoming hydrangeas, blooming rose beds, tunnels of wisteria, temples, pavilions and a charming grotto pack in a feast for the senses, but the real draw is the view from the Belvedere of Infinity. At golden hour, romantically poised classical busts frame a dazzling backdrop of craggy crevices and pastel villages that line the coast. And while breathtaking is very much an overused word, this takeaway image of Amalfi’s pulsing Mediterranean tundra is, without doubt, guaranteed to leave you gasping for air. The villa (also well worth a peek) was the boho place to be in the early part of the 20^th century: Greta Garbo, Virginia Woolf, Winston Churchill, DH Lawrence and Salvador Dalí were all previously mega fans. Via Santa Chiara, 26, 84010 Ravello SA, Italy / +39 089 857459

What To Buy

In Positano, the one stop shop for the chicest Amalfi fashion is, without any competition, Emporio Sirenuse. Perched just opposite its namesake hotel Le Sirenuse, find quirky off the wall boutique chic designed in collaboration with some of the finest out there, from Emilia Wickstead to Luke Edward Hall, and for those who take their swimwear very seriously, Allegra Hicks. Looks are “a romantic take on the spirit of the Amalfi coast’ says founder Carla Sersale whose look book is best described as easy breezy summer-ready style. For footwear, Try La Botteguccia de Giovanni. Leather sandals are handmade by craftsman Giovanni in his small workroom at the back of the shop. All you must do is choose a colour and any decorative flourishes you want (shells are always in fashion), tell him your size and then nip round the corner for an espresso while he makes your shoes. The late Jackie Kennedy and the celebs are big fans, too.

When it comes to taking a slice of Positano home, look no further than its excellent ceramic shops. One of the best is Ceramiche Maria Grazia. Browse a sumptuous display of locally produced ceramics that are more or less guaranteed to cause a stir at your next big blow out dinner party. The colours and designs are subtle, and classy, with lots of Amalfi lemons emblazoned onto urns, plates, tables and even cutesy egg cups.

The pottery masterclass continues out in Ravello at Ravello Arte Ceramiche Artistiche on the Via Roma, a small hole-in-the-wall that creates handmade pieces with the motto ‘craft becomes art’. Designs are typical of the region featuring everything from iconic Amalfi lemons to playful spins on Italian classics. Nearby Ceramiche Cosmolena on the Via della Marra is also well worth a snoop and specialises in made-to-order and personalized designs shipped the world over.

GETTING THERE

BA flies direct to Naples from £45 per person.

Featured image: Le Sirenuse

The post The C&TH Guide To The Amalfi Coast appeared first on Country and Town House.

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The Best Beach Clubs in Europe

Nikki Beach

Mallorca

Since it was founded back in 1998 by Jack and Lucia Penrod, the Nikki Beach empire has expanded all over the world, with 11 beach clubs located everywhere from Saint Tropez to Dubai. All offer glamorous spaces to eat, drink, dine and dance, with an eclectic programme of music and live entertainment running throughout the summer season. The Mallorca outpost – which turns 10 this year – is found in the southwestern part of the island on Calvià Beach, the slightly quieter end of Magaluf. Nikki Beach is a place to be seen: it’s all plush white sunbeds, poolside cabanas and bamboo, with a glitzy Asian-inspired menu (sushi, seafood platters and ‘sexy salads’), and a decadent drinks offering (think giant Espresso Martinis and magnums of champagne inside guitar cases). It’s best suited to groups of friends keen for a day party in the sunshine. Notable events this summer include a 10th Anniversary White Party on 30 June, and a Michelin-starred dinner event running in partnership with Taittinger Champagne in July.

HOW? mallorca.nikkibeach.com

Atzaro Beach Club

Ibiza

Atzaro Beach club and restaurant can be found on the north-east side of Ibiza on the beautiful beach of Cala Nova and celebrated a big year in 2019 with a chic new look and concept. Reminiscent of traditional 70s Balearic style, the Atzaro Design team have created a super relaxed, chic environment with a combination of natural woods and rattan, terracotta pots alongside beautiful local plants cacti and palms. The soft neutral colour palette accompanied by the sound of the crystal-clear waves gently breaking over the beach creates a tranquil environment in which to while away the lazy summer hours. The relaxed seating areas, day beds and soft cushions create a casual relaxed lounge feel by day or a more vibrant energetic vibe by night. The menu includes healthy, vegetarian, light salads, paella and seafood with locally sourced ingredients and an emphasis on sharing plates. Review by Nicole Smallwood

HOW? atzaro.com

Maxi’s Beach Club

Portopiccolo Sistiana, Italy

Situated on Portopiccolo’s white shingle beach is Maxi’s Beach Club, one of Italy’s most exclusive beach clubs. With panoramic sea views, comfortable sunbeds and gazebos, this is the perfect spot for long summer days spent lounging in style. All ages are welcome at Maxi’s, with games and entertainment on offer to keep younger guests happy. Keep an eye out for pool party dates and guest DJ spots.

HOW? portopiccolosistiana.it

© Nick Isden

Peligoni Club

Zakynthos

Lighting up the quiet north-eastern coast of Zakynthos for more than 30 years, The Peligoni Club is the perfect combination of picture perfect whitewashed clifftop lounging for those without kids, and family-friendly entertainment for those with youngsters in tow. It has the rare capacity to please both equally, offering all-level watersports, multiple lounging areas and options, varied excursions and evening entertainment. You’ll feel at home within hours of your arrival – and, whether you’re visiting for the day for a spa treatment and a cocktail or setting up camp on the white-washed cliff-top decking, few fail to return after the Peligoni beach club experience.

HOW? peligoni.com 

Ocean Club

Marbella

Some beach clubs are great for people watching, others deliver fantastic food; some have a beautiful sea view, others an enormous, salt-water pool for swimming in. Ocean Club, Marbella has all of the above. Open daily from 9am until 11pm April to October with fresh, delicious food in the newly refurbished restaurant and champagne in abundance, it’s the perfect place for a day well spent lounging on one of the enormous day beds. There’s also a menu of bespoke cocktails curated by top mixologists. It’s also well worth checking out the season calendar for party nights and guest DJs – the themed club nights are amongst the most extravagant in Marbella (and usually sell out fast).

HOW? oceanclub.es

Main image: Nikki Beach, Mallorca

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European Wedding Venues For An Idyllic Destination Wedding

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Featured Image: Villa Sola Cabiati, Grand Hotel Tremezzo

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